German Spaetzle with Brown Butter

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Spaetzle maker, large-holed colander, or flat cutting board
• •Large pot (6-quart minimum)
• •12-inch skillet (stainless or cast iron)
• •Spider strainer or large slotted spoon
• •Large bowl for ice bath

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the batter

   Whisk together the flour, salt, and nutmeg in a large bowl. Create a well in the center. In a separate bowl, beat the eggs with the milk until uniform. Pour the wet ingredients into the well and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the batter is smooth, elastic, and pulls away from the sides of the bowl. It should be thick enough to hold its shape briefly on a spoon, but loose enough to drip slowly. This takes about three minutes of determined stirring.

   The batter should be thicker than pancake batter but thinner than bread dough. If too thick, add milk by the tablespoon. If too thin, add flour by the tablespoon.
2. 2

   Rest the batter

   Cover the bowl with a kitchen towel and let the batter rest for fifteen minutes at room temperature. This allows the gluten to relax and the flour to fully hydrate, producing more tender dumplings. Don't skip this. Impatience here costs you texture.

3. 3

   Prepare the cooking setup

   Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a rolling boil. The water should taste pleasantly salty, like the sea. Set a large bowl of ice water beside the stove. Have your spaetzle maker, colander with large holes, or a flat wooden cutting board ready at the stovetop.

4. 4

   Form the spaetzle

   Working in batches, press the batter through a spaetzle maker directly into the boiling water, or use a colander with quarter-inch holes held over the pot, pushing the batter through with a rubber spatula. The dumplings will sink, then float to the surface within sixty to ninety seconds. That float tells you they're done.

   No spaetzle maker? Use a sturdy colander or the traditional board method: spread batter on a wet cutting board held at an angle over the pot, then scrape thin strips into the water with a knife or bench scraper.
5. 5

   Shock and drain

   As each batch floats, use a slotted spoon or spider strainer to transfer the spaetzle immediately to the ice bath. This stops the cooking and prevents the dumplings from becoming gummy. Once cooled, about thirty seconds, transfer to a clean kitchen towel to drain. Repeat with remaining batter.

6. 6

   Brown the butter

   Cut the butter into tablespoon-sized pieces and place in a large skillet over medium heat. Swirl occasionally as the butter melts, foams, and the milk solids begin to toast on the bottom of the pan. Watch carefully. The butter will progress from pale yellow to golden to a rich amber, releasing an aroma of toasted hazelnuts. This takes about four minutes. The moment you see brown flecks and smell that nutty perfume, you're there.

   Brown butter goes from perfect to burnt in seconds. Keep your nose alert and your eyes on the pan. When it smells like heaven, act immediately.
7. 7

   Pan-fry the spaetzle

   Add all the drained spaetzle to the brown butter. Toss to coat, then spread in a single layer and let them sit undisturbed for two minutes to develop golden spots on the bottom. Toss again and repeat. You want some dumplings crispy at the edges, others soft and pillowy in the center. This contrast is the whole point. Total pan time is about five minutes.

8. 8

   Season and serve

   Remove from heat and shower with the snipped chives. Season with flaky sea salt and several grinds of black pepper. Taste one dumpling. Adjust seasoning if needed. Transfer to a warm serving bowl and bring immediately to the table. Spaetzle waits for no one.

Chef Tips

• •Room temperature ingredients matter here more than in most recipes. Cold eggs and milk produce a stiffer batter that fights you every step of the way.
• •A spaetzle maker costs about fifteen dollars and will last a lifetime. If you plan to make this more than twice, buy one. Your shoulders will thank you.
• •The ice bath isn't optional. It halts cooking instantly and prevents the dumplings from turning to mush. Skip it at your peril.
• •Leftover spaetzle fries beautifully the next day. Toss cold spaetzle into a hot buttered pan and let them crisp aggressively. Top with a fried egg for a magnificent breakfast.
• •For richer dumplings, substitute two of the whole eggs with four egg yolks. The color deepens to gold and the texture becomes more luxurious.

Advance Preparation

• •Batter can be made and refrigerated up to 24 hours ahead. Let it return to room temperature and stir well before cooking.
• •Boiled and shocked spaetzle can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Spread on a sheet pan, drizzle with a little oil to prevent sticking, cover tightly.
• •For potlucks, brown the butter and fry the spaetzle at home, then transport in a covered dish. Reheat in a 350°F oven for 10 minutes, or give them another quick pan-fry to restore crispness.
• •Spaetzle freezes well for up to 2 months. Freeze in a single layer on a sheet pan, then transfer to a freezer bag. Pan-fry directly from frozen, adding a few extra minutes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 200g)