
Chef Ally
Apricot Flaugnarde
A golden custard that puffs and billows around halved summer apricots, then settles into something tender and barely sweet, the kind of dessert that reminds you fruit is the point.
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Fresh garden mint steeped in cream until it tastes like summer itself, churned smooth and studded with dark chocolate that shatters with every bite. This is what mint ice cream was always meant to be.
Forget everything you know about mint chip ice cream. Those neon-green scoops flavored with extract have nothing to do with the real thing. Fresh mint steeped in cream is a revelation: bright and herbaceous, tasting of the plant itself rather than toothpaste.
The technique could not be simpler. You warm cream with bruised mint leaves, let them steep until the dairy takes on that pale green tint and unmistakable fragrance, then strain and churn. The mint does the work. Your job is to get out of the way.
I use dark chocolate here, not the waxy chips of commercial ice cream. Good chocolate, chopped fine, becomes those shattering shards that make each bite interesting. The bitterness plays against the sweet cream and cool mint in a way that milk chocolate never could.
This is garden-to-table eating at its simplest. If you grow mint, you likely have more than you know what to do with. Here is one perfect use for it.
Quantity
2 cups packed (about 2 large bunches)
Quantity
2 cups
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
3/4 cup, divided
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
5
Quantity
4 ounces
finely chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fresh mint leaves and tender stems | 2 cups packed (about 2 large bunches) |
| heavy cream | 2 cups |
| whole milk | 1 cup |
| granulated sugar | 3/4 cup, divided |
| fine sea salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| large egg yolks | 5 |
| dark chocolate (70% cacao)finely chopped | 4 ounces |
Gather your mint in both hands and twist it gently, then tear the leaves roughly. You want to release the oils without pulverizing the herb. Drop the bruised mint into a heavy-bottomed saucepan. The fragrance should fill your kitchen immediately. If it does not, your mint is not fresh enough.
Pour the cream, milk, half the sugar, and salt over the mint. Warm the mixture over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until it just begins to steam and small bubbles form at the edges. Do not let it boil. Remove from heat, press the mint gently with a spoon to submerge it, then cover and let steep for one hour. The cream will turn pale green and smell like a garden after rain.
Set a fine-mesh strainer over a clean saucepan. Pour the steeped cream through, pressing firmly on the mint to extract every drop of flavor. Discard the spent leaves. Rewarm the mint cream over medium heat until it steams again.
Whisk the egg yolks with the remaining sugar in a bowl until pale and slightly thickened, about two minutes by hand. Slowly drizzle one cup of the warm mint cream into the yolks while whisking constantly. This tempers the eggs so they will not scramble. Pour the tempered mixture back into the saucepan with the remaining cream.
Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or silicone spatula, until the custard thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon. Run your finger through the coating: if it holds a clean line, you are there. This takes eight to twelve minutes. Do not rush it. The temperature should reach 170F but never exceed 180F.
Strain the custard through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean bowl set over ice water. Stir occasionally until cool to the touch. Press plastic wrap directly onto the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until thoroughly cold, at least four hours or overnight. Cold custard churns into smoother ice cream.
Pour the chilled custard into your ice cream maker and churn according to the manufacturer's instructions. The ice cream is ready when it holds soft peaks and pulls away from the sides of the bowl, usually twenty to twenty-five minutes. It will look like very thick whipped cream.
Transfer the churned ice cream to a chilled container in layers, scattering chopped chocolate between each layer. The cold ice cream will cause the chocolate to set into those satisfying chips that shatter against your teeth. Press plastic wrap onto the surface and freeze until firm, at least three hours.
1 serving (about 115g)
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