
Chef Ally
Arugula with Shaved Pecorino and Lemon
Peppery arugula leaves tossed in nothing but fresh lemon and good olive oil, showered with curls of aged pecorino. A salad that proves the best cooking is knowing when to get out of the way.
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The simplest salad in the French tradition: tender market lettuces, washed and dried with care, dressed moments before serving in a vinaigrette where good shallot meets good oil and they become something greater together.
This is the salad I eat more than any other. When the lettuces are right, truly right, picked that morning and still holding onto their aliveness, they need almost nothing. A simple vinaigrette. Your hands to toss them. A bowl large enough to give the leaves room to move.
I learned this in France, watching women at the market squeeze heads of lettuce to judge their hearts, then dress them at home with the kind of attention Americans reserve for complicated things. The French know that simplicity requires the best ingredients. There is nowhere to hide.
The shallot vinaigrette is classic for good reason. Shallots have a sweetness that raw onion lacks, and when you let them sit in good vinegar, they soften into something almost floral. A touch of Dijon helps the oil and acid come together. That is all. Let things taste of what they are.
Every meal is a meaningful choice. When you buy lettuces from a farmer who planted them, watered them, and cut them for market, you are keeping that farm alive. The salad tastes better for the connection. It always does.
Quantity
8 ounces (about 8 loosely packed cups)
Quantity
1
minced (about 2 tablespoons)
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
to taste
freshly cracked
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| mixed tender lettuces | 8 ounces (about 8 loosely packed cups) |
| small shallotminced (about 2 tablespoons) | 1 |
| red wine vinegar | 1 tablespoon |
| Dijon mustard | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/4 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| extra-virgin olive oil | 3 tablespoons |
| black pepperfreshly cracked | to taste |
Start at the market. Look for lettuces that were picked this morning. The leaves should be perky, not tired. They should feel alive in your hands. A mix of textures makes the salad interesting: butter lettuce for silkiness, oak leaf for body, a few leaves of frisée or young arugula for gentle bite. Avoid anything browning at the edges or limp at the stem.
Fill a large bowl with very cold water. Submerge the lettuces and swish gently. Lift them out and let the grit settle, then repeat until no sand remains at the bottom. Dry the leaves thoroughly in a salad spinner, working in batches. Wet greens dilute the vinaigrette and will not hold it. Spread the leaves on a clean kitchen towel if needed to absorb any remaining moisture.
Place the minced shallot in a small bowl with the red wine vinegar and salt. Let it sit for at least ten minutes, longer if you have time. The acid softens the raw bite and turns the shallot sweet and mild. This step is not optional. Raw shallot straight into vinaigrette tastes harsh. Macerated shallot tastes like itself, only gentler.
Whisk the Dijon mustard into the shallot and vinegar mixture. The mustard emulsifies, helping the oil and acid come together. Drizzle in the olive oil slowly, whisking constantly, until the vinaigrette looks creamy and unified. Taste it. Add more salt if it needs it. The dressing should be bright enough to wake up the greens but not so sharp it overwhelms them.
Place the dry lettuces in your largest bowl. You need room to toss without bruising. Drizzle about two-thirds of the vinaigrette over the leaves. Use your hands to gently lift and turn the greens, coating each leaf lightly. Add more dressing only if needed. The leaves should glisten, not swim. Season with a few grinds of black pepper. Taste a leaf. Adjust. Serve immediately on individual plates or a wide platter.
1 serving (about 75g)
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