
Chef Jeong-sun
Agwi-jjim (Braised Monkfish with Bean Sprouts)
Firm monkfish buried under crisp soybean sprouts, minari, and a red gochugaru sauce thickened at the end; Masan's market dish asks for heat, timing, and a steady hand.
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Silver-skinned hairtail laid over thick radish rounds and simmered in a spicy soy braise, the weeknight Jeju pot where the radish becomes as prized as the fish.
At the market, good galchi announces itself without shouting: bright silver skin, clear eyes, flesh that holds firm when the fishmonger cuts it into thick pieces. Cook the month you're standing in. Hairtail is best when the fish is fat from late summer into autumn, but a careful frozen galchi will still make a proper jorim on a winter weeknight if it was handled well.
This dish lives or dies by the order of the pot. The radish goes down first, because mu (Korean radish) needs time to soften and sweeten before the fish arrives. The fish goes on top and is not stirred. You baste it with the sauce instead, spoon by spoon, because galchi is delicate and a careless chopstick will break the pieces before dinner reaches the table.
People think the red sauce should do all the work. It shouldn't. Gochugaru (Korean chili flakes), soy sauce, garlic, ginger, and a small spoon of gochujang (fermented chili paste) are enough; too much paste turns every bite the same. Let the fish taste clean and the radish taste deep. Notebook 42 says the radish is the first thing to disappear when this pot is right, and that one does it properly too.
Galchi, the largehead hairtail or cutlassfish, is strongly tied to Jeju and the southern coastal waters, where it has long been sold fresh at markets and cooked quickly because the flesh is delicate. Galchi-jorim also became famous in Seoul through Namdaemun Market's galchi alley, where small restaurants built weeknight meals around inexpensive cut fish braised with radish and red seasoning. The dish belongs to the broader Korean jorim method, a soy-seasoned braise that reduces until the sauce clings rather than covering the food like soup.
Quantity
800g
cut into 2-inch crosswise pieces
Quantity
500g
peeled and cut into 1/2-inch thick half-moons
Quantity
1/2 medium
sliced 1/2-inch thick
Quantity
1
sliced on the diagonal
Quantity
1
sliced on the diagonal
Quantity
2
cut into 2-inch lengths
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
Quantity
4 tablespoons
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon maesil-cheong or 2 teaspoons sugar
Quantity
1 tablespoon
minced
Quantity
1 teaspoon
grated
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| galchi (hairtail or cutlassfish)cut into 2-inch crosswise pieces | 800g |
| Korean radish (mu)peeled and cut into 1/2-inch thick half-moons | 500g |
| onionsliced 1/2-inch thick | 1/2 medium |
| long green chilisliced on the diagonal | 1 |
| red chili (optional)sliced on the diagonal | 1 |
| scallionscut into 2-inch lengths | 2 |
| anchovy-kelp broth or water | 1 1/2 cups |
| soy sauce | 4 tablespoons |
| gochugaru (Korean chili flakes) | 2 tablespoons |
| gochujang (Korean fermented chili paste) | 1 tablespoon |
| mirim or rice wine | 1 tablespoon |
| maesil-cheong (green plum syrup) or sugar | 1 tablespoon maesil-cheong or 2 teaspoons sugar |
| garlicminced | 1 tablespoon |
| gingergrated | 1 teaspoon |
| toasted sesame oil | 1 teaspoon |
| black pepper | 1/4 teaspoon |
| toasted sesame seeds (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
Rinse the galchi pieces briefly under cold water and pat them dry. If you see dark blood or black membrane inside the belly cavity, wipe it out with a paper towel or rinse it away, because that is where the muddy taste hides. Leave the silver skin alone; it is part of the fish and helps the pieces hold together.
In a bowl, stir together the soy sauce, gochugaru, gochujang, mirim, maesil-cheong or sugar, garlic, ginger, sesame oil, black pepper, and 3 tablespoons of the broth. The sauce should be loose enough to spoon, not a paste. The gochujang is only one tablespoon because this is a braise of fish and radish, not a pot of chili paste.
Lay the radish half-moons in a wide shallow pot in one even layer, then scatter the sliced onion over them. Pour in the remaining broth, cover, and simmer over medium heat for 10 minutes. The radish goes first because it needs time to turn tender and sweet before the fish cooks, and the fish cannot wait for it later.
Open the pot and lay the galchi pieces over the softened radish, skin side up when you can. Spoon the seasoning sauce over the fish and around the pot. Do not stir. Bring it back to a steady simmer, then cover and cook for 8 minutes so the fish sets gently.
Uncover the pot and simmer 12 to 15 minutes more, spooning the sauce over the fish every few minutes. The liquid should reduce until it looks glossy and a little thick at the edges of the pot. This basting is the whole technique: the fish seasons from above while the radish drinks the sauce from below, and nothing gets broken by stirring.
Add the green chili, red chili if using, and scallions during the last 3 minutes, just long enough for them to soften and scent the sauce. Taste the sauce from the edge of the pot. If it is too salty, add 2 tablespoons water and simmer one minute; if it tastes flat, add 1 teaspoon soy sauce, not another spoon of gochujang.
Scatter sesame seeds over the top if you use them and carry the pot to the table with hot rice. Lift the fish with a wide spoon, not chopsticks, and serve each person radish from the bottom. The radish is not a cushion. It is half the reason we made dinner.
1 serving (about 365g)
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