Futomaki (太巻き, fat sushi roll)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Bamboo rolling mat (makisu)
• •Rice paddle, or a flat wooden spoon
• •Tamagoyaki pan, or a small rectangular skillet
• •Sharp knife with a damp cloth for wiping

Instructions

1. 1

   Season the rice

   Stir the rice vinegar, sugar, and salt until dissolved. Turn the hot rice into a wide bowl, sprinkle the vinegar mixture over it, and fold with a slicing motion while fanning until the grains look glossy and separate. You are cooling the rice and seasoning it at the same time; stir hard and it turns pasty, which makes a clumsy roll before the nori has even appeared.

2. 2

   Simmer the kanpyō

   Rinse the kanpyō, rub it with a little salt, rinse again, then simmer in plain water until flexible, about 10 minutes. Drain it, then simmer with 1/2 cup dashi, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, 1 tablespoon sugar, and 1 tablespoon mirin until glossy and seasoned through. The first simmer softens the fiber; the second gives it flavor without leaving the center tough and plain.

3. 3

   Season the shiitake

   Soak the dried shiitake in warm water until soft, trim the stems, and slice the caps. Simmer with 1/2 cup dashi, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon sugar, and 1 tablespoon mirin until the liquid is nearly gone. Let them cool before rolling, because warm fillings soften the nori and loosen the rice.

4. 4

   Make the tamagoyaki

   Beat the eggs gently with 2 tablespoons dashi, 1 teaspoon sugar, and 1 teaspoon usukuchi soy sauce. Cook in thin layers in a lightly oiled tamagoyaki pan, rolling each layer over the last, then cool and cut into long bars. Gentle mixing keeps the egg tender; too much air makes holes, and holes make the slice look careless.

5. 5

   Set the mat

   Lay a bamboo rolling mat in front of you with a full sheet of nori on top, shiny side down and long edge facing you. With damp hands, spread a thin, even layer of sushi rice over the nori, leaving a 1-inch strip bare at the far edge. That bare strip is the seal; cover it with rice and the roll has nowhere clean to close.

6. 6

   Arrange the fillings

   Lay tamagoyaki, kanpyō, shiitake, cucumber, and a line of sakura denbu across the rice just below the center. Keep the filling line tidy and level, with the heavier pieces nearest you. A roll closes around an orderly center; scatter the fillings and the knife will tell on you later.

7. 7

   Roll the futomaki

   Lift the near edge of the mat and nori over the fillings in one confident motion, tucking the edge just beyond them. Press lightly along the length, then continue rolling to the bare strip of nori and set the seam underneath. Firm is enough. Crush it and the rice compacts, the fillings smear, and all that careful color goes dull.

8. 8

   Rest and cut

   Let the roll rest seam-side down for 5 minutes so the nori relaxes and holds. Wipe a sharp knife with a damp cloth, cut the roll in half, then cut each half into four pieces, wiping between cuts. A clean wet blade passes through rice instead of dragging it, so the face of each slice stays bright and honest.

Chef Tips

• •Use full sheets of good nori and keep them dry until the moment you roll. Nori goes limp quickly once rice touches it, so preparation is kindness to the cook.
• •Kanpyō is worth finding for futomaki. Its mild sweetness and firm chew are part of the roll's character, not a decorative extra.
• •Do not overfill. Futomaki is thick because it carries several fillings, not because every filling is piled high. The best slice shows clear bands of color with rice around them.
• •For a meatless table, use konbu and dried shiitake dashi for the simmered fillings and leave out sakura denbu. That is honmono in the temple-kitchen direction, not a poor imitation.

Advance Preparation

• •The kanpyō and shiitake can be simmered one day ahead and kept refrigerated in their cooking liquid. Drain them well before rolling.
• •The tamagoyaki can be made the morning of serving and kept covered at room temperature for a few hours, or refrigerated and brought back to room temperature.
• •Roll futomaki close to serving time. It can wait for 1 to 2 hours, but refrigeration hardens the rice and dulls the nori.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 250g)