
Chef Graziella
Bistecca alla Fiorentina
The T-bone of Florence, thick as three fingers and charred over blazing coals, rested until the juices settle, finished with nothing but salt and the best olive oil Tuscany can offer.
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The mixed seafood fry of the Adriatic, where shrimp, squid, and small fish wear only a whisper of flour before meeting hot oil. Served immediately with lemon wedges. Nothing more.
In Cesenatico, the fishing village where I grew up, fritto misto was what the fishermen's wives made when the boats came in. Whatever the nets brought that morning went into the pot: tiny sole, fresh sardines, shrimp still twitching, squid pulled from the catch. The coating was barely there, just enough flour to create a golden shell around the sweet flesh of the sea.
This is not the heavy, battered fried seafood of British fish shops or American boardwalks. Italian frying is about restraint. The flour coating must be so light you can see through it. The oil must be hot enough that the seafood cooks before it can absorb grease. The result is something ethereal: crisp outside, tender inside, tasting purely of the sea.
What you keep out matters as much as what you put in. No batter. No breadcrumbs. No garlic. No herbs in the coating. The seafood is the star, and nothing must compete with it. A squeeze of lemon is the only accompaniment. Anyone who serves fritto misto with cocktail sauce or tartar sauce has missed the point entirely.
Fritto misto di mare has been the celebratory dish of Italy's coastal towns since at least the 16th century, when improved fishing techniques brought abundant catches to port cities along the Adriatic and Tyrrhenian coasts. Each region claims its version: Romagna insists on the lightest flour coating, Naples adds lemon to the batter, Venice sometimes includes soft-shell crabs in season.
Quantity
1 pound
shell on or peeled
Quantity
1 pound
cleaned, bodies cut into 1/2-inch rings, tentacles left whole
Quantity
1 pound
cleaned (whitebait, smelts, or fresh sardines)
Quantity
2 cups
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
about 2 quarts
for frying
Quantity
3
cut into wedges
Quantity
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| medium shrimpshell on or peeled | 1 pound |
| small squidcleaned, bodies cut into 1/2-inch rings, tentacles left whole | 1 pound |
| small whole fishcleaned (whitebait, smelts, or fresh sardines) | 1 pound |
| all-purpose flour | 2 cups |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| vegetable oil or mild olive oilfor frying | about 2 quarts |
| lemonscut into wedges | 3 |
| flaky sea salt | for finishing |
Pat every piece of seafood completely dry with paper towels. This is not a suggestion. Wet seafood will spatter dangerously in hot oil and will steam instead of fry, producing a soggy, pale coating instead of a crisp golden one. The squid rings, the tentacles, the shrimp, the small fish: all must be dry.
Place the flour in a wide shallow bowl and season it generously with kosher salt. Stir to combine. The flour should taste pleasantly salty. This is the only seasoning the seafood will receive before frying.
Pour the oil into a heavy, deep pot to a depth of at least 3 inches. Heat over medium-high until a deep-fry thermometer reads 375 degrees Fahrenheit. If you do not have a thermometer, drop a small piece of bread into the oil. It should sizzle immediately and turn golden in about 30 seconds. The oil must be hot enough, or the coating will absorb grease and become heavy.
Working with one type of seafood at a time, toss the pieces in the seasoned flour. Shake off every bit of excess. The coating should be so thin it is barely visible, a whisper of flour, not a jacket. Heavy coatings belong to fish and chips, not to Italian frying.
Carefully lower a small batch of floured seafood into the hot oil. Do not crowd the pot. The pieces should have room to swim freely. Fry until golden and crisp, turning once if needed: 2 to 3 minutes for shrimp and squid, 1 to 2 minutes for tiny fish. Transfer to a wire rack set over a sheet pan. Do not drain on paper towels, which trap steam and soften the crust.
Between batches, let the oil return to 375 degrees before adding more seafood. If you rush, the temperature will drop and the coating will absorb oil. Patience here is the difference between light and heavy.
As each batch comes out of the oil, sprinkle it with flaky sea salt while still glistening. Pile the fried seafood on a warm platter lined with parchment or plain white paper. Arrange lemon wedges around the edges. Serve at once. Fritto misto waits for no one. The moment it sits, the magic begins to fade.
1 serving (about 300g)
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