
Chef Ally
Apricot Flaugnarde
A golden custard that puffs and billows around halved summer apricots, then settles into something tender and barely sweet, the kind of dessert that reminds you fruit is the point.
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A lighter, tangier cheesecake built on fresh chèvre from a farm you trust, crowned with roasted figs that split and caramelize, finished with honey that tastes of the flowers it came from.
Start with the cheese. Find a farmer who makes fresh chèvre, the kind that comes wrapped in paper and smells faintly of the pasture. This is not the crumbly aged goat cheese you sprinkle on salads. You want something soft, bright, and alive with tang. The aliveness of the cheese becomes the soul of this cake.
Figs arrive in late summer with almost no warning. One week the trees are heavy with hard green fruit, and the next the figs are splitting with sweetness, demanding to be eaten that day. Black Mission figs have the deepest flavor, their purple-black skins giving way to crimson flesh. Kadota figs are gentler, honey-colored through and through. Either will work, but they must be ripe.
This is not a dense, heavy New York cheesecake. The goat cheese keeps things lighter, almost mousse-like, with a pleasant tang that cuts through the sweetness. A drizzle of local honey and those roasted figs on top are all you need. Getting out of the way is the whole point here. Let things taste of what they are.
Quantity
1 1/2 cups (150g)
Quantity
3 tablespoons
melted
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
12 ounces
at room temperature
Quantity
12 ounces
at room temperature
Quantity
3/4 cup (150g)
Quantity
3
at room temperature
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
finely grated
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
8-10
Quantity
2 tablespoons, plus more for drizzling
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| almond flour | 1 1/2 cups (150g) |
| unsalted butter (for crust)melted | 3 tablespoons |
| honey (for crust) | 2 tablespoons |
| fine sea salt (for crust) | 1/4 teaspoon |
| fresh goat cheese (chèvre)at room temperature | 12 ounces |
| cream cheeseat room temperature | 12 ounces |
| granulated sugar | 3/4 cup (150g) |
| large eggsat room temperature | 3 |
| sour cream or crème fraîche | 1 cup |
| fresh lemon juice | 1 tablespoon |
| lemon zestfinely grated | 1 teaspoon |
| pure vanilla extract | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt (for filling) | 1/4 teaspoon |
| ripe fresh figs | 8-10 |
| honey (for figs) | 2 tablespoons, plus more for drizzling |
| unsalted butter (for figs) | 1 tablespoon |
| fresh thyme leaves (optional) | for finishing |
Preheat your oven to 325°F. Wrap the outside of a 9-inch springform pan with two layers of aluminum foil, bringing it up the sides to prevent water from seeping in during the water bath. In a bowl, stir together the almond flour, melted butter, honey, and salt until the mixture resembles wet sand. Press firmly into the bottom of the pan using the flat bottom of a measuring cup. Bake for 12 minutes until lightly golden and fragrant. Let cool while you make the filling.
In a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer, beat the goat cheese and cream cheese on medium speed until completely smooth, about 3 minutes. Scrape down the sides twice. Any lumps now will remain lumps forever. The goat cheese should fully integrate with the cream cheese, creating a uniformly pale, silky base.
Add the sugar and beat on medium-low until incorporated, about 1 minute. Add the eggs one at a time, beating just until each disappears before adding the next. Do not rush this. Do not overbeat. Overworked batter traps air that expands in the oven and causes cracking.
Add the sour cream, lemon juice, lemon zest, vanilla, and salt. Mix on low speed just until uniform, scraping the bowl once. The batter should be silky and pourable, with a faint tang from the goat cheese that the lemon brightens. Taste it. You should already sense what this cake will become.
Pour the batter over the cooled crust. Set the wrapped springform pan inside a larger roasting pan. Place both pans in the oven, then carefully pour hot water into the roasting pan until it reaches halfway up the sides of the springform. The steam creates a gentle, even heat that prevents cracking.
Bake for 55 to 65 minutes. The cheesecake is done when the edges are set but the center still jiggles like gelatin when you gently shake the pan. It will look underdone. Trust this. The residual heat will finish the cooking as it cools. A crack means you overbaked.
Turn off the oven, crack the door open a few inches, and let the cheesecake cool inside for one hour. This gradual temperature change prevents the dreaded crack. Then remove to a wire rack, run a thin knife around the edge to release the sides, and cool completely. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight. The texture improves as it chills.
About 30 minutes before serving, preheat your oven to 400°F. Trim the stems from the figs and halve them lengthwise. Arrange cut-side up on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Dot with small pieces of butter and drizzle with honey. Roast for 12 to 15 minutes until the figs soften and caramelize at the edges, their natural sugars concentrating. They should hold their shape but yield completely when pressed.
Remove the cheesecake from the springform. Arrange the warm roasted figs over the top, letting them tumble naturally rather than placing them precisely. Drizzle generously with honey (the good stuff, from a beekeeper you know if possible). Scatter a few fresh thyme leaves if you like. Slice with a thin knife dipped in hot water and wiped clean between cuts.
1 serving (about 145g)
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