Chef Graziella
Asparagi e Uova alla Veneta
The Venetian celebration of spring, where prized white asparagus meets butter-fried eggs and the yolk becomes the only sauce you need. This is restraint as philosophy.
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French Toast al Panettone
Created by
Day-old panettone reborn in a simple egg custard, griddled in butter until the edges turn golden and the candied citrus begins to caramelize. This is what Milanese grandmothers do with Christmas leftovers.
Breakfast & Brunch
Italian
Christmas
Holiday
Celebration
15 min
Active Time
20 min cook•35 min total
Yield4 servings
Italians do not waste bread. This has always been true. When the great domed panettone of Christmas morning sits on the counter a day or two later, slightly dry and losing its soft crumb, you do not throw it away. You transform it.
This is not an Italian recipe in the classical sense. The French claim pain perdu, the Romans made something similar two thousand years ago, and Americans have turned French toast into a vehicle for syrup and whipped cream. What I offer you here is restraint. The panettone is already sweet, already studded with candied orange and citron, already perfumed with butter. It needs only a simple custard and proper technique.
The egg mixture is barely sweetened. The milk is whole, not cream. You soak briefly because the bread is delicate, not dense like brioche. You cook in butter over moderate heat, allowing the sugars in the fruit to caramelize against the pan. The result is a breakfast that honors the panettone itself rather than burying it under nonsense.
What you serve with it matters. A dusting of powdered sugar, perhaps. A spoonful of mascarpone if you must. Never maple syrup, which obliterates everything it touches. The candied fruit provides all the sweetness you need.
Panettone emerged from Milan in the 15th century, though the legends surrounding its creation are almost certainly invented. What is true: by the 20th century, Milanese bakers had perfected this enriched bread with its distinctive dome and long fermentation. Italian immigrants brought panettone to America, where the tradition of transforming day-old slices into French toast became a Christmas morning ritual in homes from Brooklyn to San Francisco.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
panettone
Quantity
1 (about 2 pounds)
preferably day-old
large eggs
Quantity
4
whole milk
Quantity
1 cup
pure vanilla extract
Quantity
1 teaspoon
orange
Quantity
1
finely grated zest
granulated sugar
Quantity
1 tablespoon
fine sea salt
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
unsalted butter
Quantity
4 tablespoons
divided
powdered sugar
Quantity
for dusting
mascarpone cheese (optional)
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| panettonepreferably day-old | 1 (about 2 pounds) |
| large eggs | 4 |
| whole milk | 1 cup |
| pure vanilla extract | 1 teaspoon |
| orangefinely grated zest | 1 |
| granulated sugar | 1 tablespoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| unsalted butterdivided | 4 tablespoons |
| powdered sugar | for dusting |
| mascarpone cheese (optional) | for serving |
Equipment Needed
- •Large cast iron skillet or heavy nonstick pan
- •Wide shallow bowl for the custard
- •Fine-mesh sieve for powdered sugar
Instructions
- 1
Slice the panettone
Cut the panettone into slices approximately one inch thick. A day-old panettone is ideal because it has dried slightly and will absorb the custard without becoming sodden. Fresh panettone works but requires a lighter hand with soaking. You should have 8 good slices from a standard panettone.
The paper wrapper on commercial panettone keeps it fresh for weeks. Once opened, it stales quickly. This is when you make French toast. - 2
Make the custard
In a wide, shallow bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, vanilla, orange zest, sugar, and salt. The mixture should be completely smooth with no streaks of egg white visible. The sugar is minimal because the panettone brings its own sweetness. The orange zest echoes the candied citrus already in the bread.
- 3
Heat the pan
Place a large cast iron skillet or heavy nonstick pan over medium heat. Add one tablespoon of butter and let it melt and foam. When the foam subsides but before the butter browns, you are ready to cook. The heat must be moderate. Too high and the exterior burns before the custard sets. Too low and the bread becomes greasy.
- 4
Soak and cook
Dip each panettone slice into the custard, letting it sit for only 10 to 15 seconds per side. The bread is porous and tender; it absorbs quickly. Immediately place the soaked slices in the hot buttered pan. Do not crowd them. Cook undisturbed until the bottom is deep golden brown and the candied fruit pieces touching the pan have begun to caramelize, about 3 minutes.
Watch the spots where candied fruit meets the pan. They will darken faster than the bread. A touch of char on the fruit is desirable. Blackened is not. - 5
Turn and finish
Carefully flip each slice with a spatula. Add another half tablespoon of butter to the pan if it looks dry. Cook the second side until equally golden, another 2 to 3 minutes. The center should be custardy but set, not liquid. Transfer to a warm plate and repeat with remaining slices, adding butter as needed.
- 6
Serve immediately
Dust the finished slices lightly with powdered sugar passed through a fine sieve. Serve at once. A small spoonful of mascarpone on the side is acceptable. Fresh berries in summer. Nothing else is necessary. The panettone speaks for itself. Do not drown this in maple syrup. The Canadians can keep it.
Chef Tips
- •Buy your panettone from an Italian bakery if possible. The supermarket versions, wrapped in cellophane and shipped from overseas, are edible but lack the buttery depth of proper Milanese panettone. Brands like Tre Marie, Fiasconaro, or Muzzi are worth seeking out.
- •If your panettone is very fresh, slice it the night before and leave the slices uncovered on a rack. The slight drying improves the texture dramatically.
- •The traditional Veronese cousin, pandoro, makes equally fine French toast. Its vanilla flavor and star shape are festive. It contains no candied fruit, so the caramelization happens evenly across the surface.
- •Leftover slices (unlikely, but possible) can be kept warm in a 200°F oven while you cook the rest. Do not stack them or they steam and become soft.
Advance Preparation
- •The custard can be whisked together up to one hour ahead and refrigerated. Whisk again before using.
- •This dish does not hold or reheat well. Make it when you are ready to serve it. The texture suffers within minutes of leaving the pan.
- •Slice the panettone the night before and leave uncovered to dry slightly. This is the only useful advance preparation.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 295g)
Calories
1005 calories
Total Fat
47 g
Saturated Fat
20 g
Trans Fat
1 g
Unsaturated Fat
24 g
Cholesterol
225 mg
Sodium
850 mg
Total Carbohydrates
135 g
Dietary Fiber
2 g
Sugars
76 g
Protein
26 g
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