
Chef Elsa
Anisbogen
Paper-thin anise wafers piped, dried overnight, baked pale gold, and bent over a rolling pin while still hot. Old-fashioned Austrian Weihnachtsbäckerei at its most elegant and rewarding.
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Lacy caramelized almond discs studded with candied fruit and coated in dark chocolate on the bottom, the Konditorei cookie that turns Christmas baking into something serious and beautiful.
Every December, Gretel and my grandmother Eva would spend one whole afternoon making Florentiner. The kitchen smelled like burnt sugar and melted chocolate and candied peel, and I was allowed to draw the fork lines through the warm chocolate on the bottoms if I promised to do it slowly and not eat more than two. I usually ate four. Nobody counted.
Florentiner are a Konditorei cookie, which means they come from the tradition of the professional Austrian pastry shop rather than the farmhouse kitchen. They demand a bit of precision. The caramel has to reach exactly the right color. The cookies have to bake until they're lacy and amber but not a shade darker. The chocolate has to be tempered properly so it sets with a snap instead of a dull, chalky film. None of this is difficult, but all of it requires you to pay attention. Put your phone down. Watch the pan.
What you get for that attention is extraordinary. Each Florentiner is a thin, glassy disc of caramelized almonds and candied fruit, shatteringly crisp on the first bite, with a layer of bittersweet chocolate on the bottom that holds everything together. They belong on a Christmas Keksteller (the big cookie plate every Austrian household assembles in Advent) next to Vanillekipferl and Linzer Augen. But I also keep them in a tin at my restaurant in Salzburg year-round, because some things are too good to save for one month.
Despite the name, Florentiner have no confirmed connection to Florence. The most plausible theory traces them to 17th-century Viennese Konditoreien, where the combination of caramelized nuts, candied citrus peel, and chocolate reflected the Habsburg capital's access to Mediterranean ingredients through trade routes running south through the Alps. The French claim them as Florentins; the Austrians call them Florentiner and consider them a fixed part of the Weihnachtsbäckerei, the Christmas baking tradition that transforms Austrian kitchens into small-scale pastry operations every December.
Quantity
100g
Quantity
50g
finely diced
Quantity
30g
finely diced
Quantity
30g
finely diced
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
100g
Quantity
100g
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
80ml
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
200g
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| flaked almonds | 100g |
| candied orange peelfinely diced | 50g |
| candied lemon peelfinely diced | 30g |
| glacé cherriesfinely diced | 30g |
| plain flour | 2 tablespoons |
| unsalted butter | 100g |
| granulated sugar | 100g |
| honey (Waldhonig or wildflower) | 2 tablespoons |
| heavy cream (Schlagobers) | 80ml |
| vanilla sugar (Vanillezucker) | 1 teaspoon |
| salt | pinch |
| dark couverture chocolate (60%+ cocoa) | 200g |
Toss the flaked almonds, diced candied orange peel, candied lemon peel, and glacé cherries together in a bowl. Sprinkle the flour over the top and mix until everything is lightly coated. The flour keeps the fruit and nuts from clumping together in the caramel and helps the cookies hold their shape on the baking sheet. Set this aside. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper and preheat your oven to 170°C (340°F).
Combine the butter, sugar, honey, cream, Vanillezucker, and salt in a heavy saucepan. Set it over medium heat and stir until the butter melts and the sugar dissolves. Now stop stirring and let it come to a boil. Let the mixture bubble for exactly two minutes. It will turn a pale golden color and start to smell like toffee. Watch it closely. The line between golden caramel and burnt sugar is about twenty seconds, and there is no coming back from the wrong side of that line.
Remove the saucepan from the heat and immediately pour the hot caramel over the almond and fruit mixture. Stir firmly with a wooden spoon until everything is evenly coated. The mixture will be loose and glossy. Let it sit for ten to fifteen minutes until it thickens enough to hold its shape on a spoon. If you try to portion it while it's still too runny, each cookie will spread into one enormous lace sheet and you'll be scraping caramel off your baking paper with a look of regret.
Drop level teaspoons of the mixture onto your lined baking sheets, leaving at least seven centimeters between each one. These spread. More than you think. Flatten each mound slightly with the back of a wet spoon. Bake for eight to ten minutes, rotating the tray once halfway through. They're done when the edges are deep amber and the centers have set into a lacy, bubbling disc. The color you want is the color of strong honey. Pale means chewy. Too dark means bitter.
Let the Florentiner cool on the baking sheet for about three minutes. They'll still be soft and pliable. This is your window. If any have spread into each other, use a round cookie cutter or a knife to nudge them back into tidy circles while they're warm. Once they cool completely on the tray, they'll turn glassy and crisp and snap cleanly when you pick them up. If they don't snap, they needed another minute in the oven. Transfer to a wire rack when firm.
Chop the dark couverture finely and melt two-thirds of it in a bowl over barely simmering water. The water must not touch the bowl. When it reaches 50°C (or feels warm but not hot against your wrist), remove the bowl from the heat and stir in the remaining third of the chopped chocolate, a handful at a time, until it all melts and the temperature drops to about 31°C. The chocolate should look glossy and smooth. If you don't have a thermometer, dab a tiny bit on your lower lip: it should feel cool, not warm. This is a simple temper. It's what gives the chocolate that clean snap and shine instead of a dull, streaky finish.
Turn the cooled Florentiner flat side up. Using a palette knife or the back of a spoon, spread a thin, even layer of tempered chocolate across the bottom of each cookie. Don't be stingy, but don't drown them. You want about two millimeters. Before the chocolate sets, draw wavy lines through it with a fork. This is the Konditorei signature, those distinctive ridges on the bottom of every proper Florentiner. They're not just decoration. The ridges help the chocolate set evenly and give you something to grip when you pick one up.
Place the chocolate-coated Florentiner on parchment paper, chocolate side up, and let them set at cool room temperature. Don't rush this by putting them in the fridge. Rapid cooling can cause the chocolate to bloom, leaving white streaks on the surface. Give them at least thirty minutes. When the chocolate is firm and matte with a slight sheen, they're ready. Stack them gently in a tin with parchment between layers. Mahlzeit!
1 serving (about 23g)
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