
Chef Elsa
Eiersalat (Austrian Egg Salad)
Cool, creamy Austrian egg salad with sour gherkins and tart apple in a mustard-yogurt dressing, the kind of honest Jause food that tastes like an Austrian Easter table and works beautifully all year round.
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Extrawurst cut into strips and bound with mayonnaise, pickle brine, and diced gherkins. The Feinkost counter classic you can make at home in fifteen minutes and eat all week on a Semmel.
Every Feinkost counter in Austria has a version of Fleischsalat behind the glass. It sits in a white ceramic bowl between the Liptauer and the Eiaufstrich, pale pink and flecked with green, waiting for someone to point at it and say "a hundred grams of that, please." I grew up eating it on Semmeln during the annual trips to Austria with Gretel and my grandmother Eva. We'd stop at a market, buy rolls and Fleischsalat and a bottle of Almdudler, and eat in the car or on a bench somewhere between Salzburg and the Salzkammergut. It tasted like the trip was officially starting.
The recipe is almost absurdly simple. Extrawurst, the mild, smooth Viennese sausage that every Austrian child grows up on, cut into strips and dressed with mayonnaise, diced gherkins, and a splash of pickle brine. That's it. The brine is the secret. It cuts through the richness of the mayo and gives the salad a tang that keeps you reaching back for another bite. Without it, you have a heavy, dull spread. With it, you have something that belongs on good bread.
Fleischsalat is not dinner-party food and it doesn't pretend to be. It's Jause, the afternoon meal that Austrians take seriously the way the English take tea. A Semmel split open, a thick layer of Fleischsalat, maybe a pickle alongside, and you're fed. Good Austrian home cooking doesn't always involve a stove. Sometimes it's a sharp knife, a mixing bowl, and the sense to leave well enough alone.
Fleischsalat belongs to the broader tradition of Austrian Aufstriche and Salate that anchor the Jause, the light meal eaten between lunch and supper. Extrawurst itself has been a Viennese staple since the 19th century, a finely emulsified sausage made from beef and pork that gets its characteristic smoothness from back fat worked into the Brät at low temperatures. The name literally means 'extra sausage,' referring to the bonus sausage a butcher would throw in for good customers. It became so fundamental to Austrian daily eating that 'das ist mir Extrawurst' entered the language as an idiom meaning special treatment.
Quantity
300g
sliced 3-4mm thick at the Feinkost counter
Quantity
4 tablespoons
Quantity
4 medium, about 80g
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 small, about 60g
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
freshly ground, to taste
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
small bunch
finely cut
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Extrawurstsliced 3-4mm thick at the Feinkost counter | 300g |
| good mayonnaise | 4 tablespoons |
| Essiggurken (pickled gherkins) | 4 medium, about 80g |
| Gurkenwasser (pickle brine) | 2 tablespoons |
| white onion | 1 small, about 60g |
| mild mustard (Kremser Senf or Dijon) | 1 teaspoon |
| sweet paprika | 1/2 teaspoon |
| white pepper | freshly ground, to taste |
| salt | to taste |
| fresh chivesfinely cut | small bunch |
| Semmeln (Austrian bread rolls) | for serving |
Stack the Extrawurst slices three or four high and cut them into strips about half a centimeter wide, then across into short batons roughly two centimeters long. You're not aiming for precision. You want pieces that sit comfortably on a Semmel and hold the dressing without falling off. If you cut them too fine, you'll end up with paste. Too chunky and it won't spread. Think matchstick-sized, give or take.
Dice the Essiggurken into small cubes, about the same size as your Extrawurst strips. Peel and dice the white onion very finely, smaller than the gherkins. The onion should dissolve into the dressing, not announce itself in every bite. If raw onion is too sharp for you, soak the diced onion in cold water for five minutes, then drain well. This takes the edge off without losing the flavor.
In a mixing bowl, stir together the mayonnaise, mustard, pickle brine, and paprika until smooth. The pickle brine is what separates a proper Fleischsalat from a heavy, claggy one. It thins the dressing just enough, adds acidity, and brings everything together. Start with two tablespoons and taste. You want the dressing loose enough to coat the Extrawurst but not so wet that it puddles on the plate.
Add the Extrawurst strips, diced gherkins, and onion to the dressing. Fold everything together gently with a spoon. You're coating, not mashing. Season with white pepper and salt, but go carefully on the salt. The Extrawurst and gherkins both carry salt already, and the brine adds more. Taste first. White pepper rather than black, because black pepper leaves dark specks that look wrong against the pale pink and green.
Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least thirty minutes. An hour is better. The Fleischsalat needs this time. The dressing soaks into the Extrawurst strips, the flavors settle and merge, and the whole thing becomes cohesive instead of tasting like separate ingredients in the same bowl. Straight out of the mixing bowl it's fine. After an hour in the fridge it's proper.
Spoon the Fleischsalat into a bowl or spread it generously onto a halved Semmel. Scatter cut chives over the top. Serve it cold, straight from the fridge. This is Jause food: a crusty roll, a thick layer of Fleischsalat, maybe an Essiggurke on the side for good measure, and a cold Bier or a Spritzer if the afternoon calls for it. Mahlzeit!
1 serving (about 135g)
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