
Chef Dimitra
Agrafa Batzina (Μπατζίνα), Courgette and Feta Pie
Agrafa's batzina is the no-phyllo pie of Karditsa: grated courgette, feta, eggs, milk, and flour poured thin into a hot oiled tapsi.
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Smyrna's Christmas finikia are olive-oil cookies shaped like dates, filled with cinnamon walnuts, baked until sandy at the edge, then dipped warm into honey syrup.
Finikia Smyrneika are Smyrna's Christmas cousin to melomakarona: olive-oil cookies shaped like little dates, opened and filled with spiced walnut before they meet the syrup. The region is the dish's surname. These are not plain syrup cookies with walnuts sprinkled on top. The walnut sits inside, so every bite has the soft crumb, the spice, and the dark sweetness together.
The method that decides them is the dough. Once the flour goes in, mix only until it disappears. Work it hard and the oil dough tightens, then the finikia bake tough instead of tender and sandy. Shape them gently, fill them generously, and press the surface against a grater or fork so the syrup has somewhere to cling.
They should taste of orange, cinnamon, clove, honey, and good olive oil, not butter. My grandmother Despina kept them in a tin at Christmas beside the kourabiedes, but the Smyrna ones were always easy to spot: longer, darker, and heavier in the hand. I don't invent them. I find them, I test them, I write them down.
Finikia Smyrneika belong to the Asia Minor Greek Christmas table and were carried into mainland Greece by refugees from Smyrna after the 1922 catastrophe. Their name points to the date-like shape, while the walnut filling and warm spices keep the Politiki and Smyrna register distinct from many mainland melomakarona. In refugee households, the filled finiki became a tin-kept sweet of memory, made in December and served through the feast days.
Quantity
500g
plus 20g more only if the dough is too soft
Quantity
80g
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
200ml
mild and fruity
Quantity
120ml
Quantity
80g
Quantity
40ml
Quantity
1 tablespoon
finely grated
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
160g
finely chopped, for the filling
Quantity
35g
for the filling
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for the filling
Quantity
1/8 teaspoon
for the filling
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for the filling
Quantity
300g
for the syrup
Quantity
220ml
for the syrup
Quantity
160g
for the syrup
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 wide strip
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
70g
finely chopped, for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flourplus 20g more only if the dough is too soft | 500g |
| fine semolina | 80g |
| baking powder | 2 teaspoons |
| ground cinnamon | 1 teaspoon |
| ground clove | 1/4 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| extra virgin olive oilmild and fruity | 200ml |
| fresh orange juice | 120ml |
| sugar | 80g |
| brandy or cognac | 40ml |
| orange zestfinely grated | 1 tablespoon |
| baking soda | 1/2 teaspoon |
| walnutsfinely chopped, for the filling | 160g |
| sugarfor the filling | 35g |
| ground cinnamonfor the filling | 1 teaspoon |
| ground clovefor the filling | 1/8 teaspoon |
| orange juicefor the filling | 1 tablespoon |
| sugarfor the syrup | 300g |
| waterfor the syrup | 220ml |
| Greek honeyfor the syrup | 160g |
| cinnamon stick | 1 |
| orange peel | 1 wide strip |
| lemon juice | 1 tablespoon |
| walnutsfinely chopped, for finishing | 70g |
Put the sugar, water, cinnamon stick, and orange peel in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 4 minutes. Take it off the heat, stir in the honey and lemon juice, and let the syrup cool while you make the finikia. Warm cookies into cool syrup, that is the rule here.
Stir the chopped walnuts with the sugar, cinnamon, clove, and 1 tablespoon orange juice. The mixture should be damp enough to hold in small pinches, not wet. If the walnuts are chopped too large, the cookies split open, so keep them fine.
Heat the oven to 180C. In a large bowl, whisk the flour, semolina, baking powder, cinnamon, clove, and salt. In a second bowl, whisk the olive oil, orange juice, sugar, brandy, and orange zest until the sugar begins to dissolve. Stir the baking soda into the liquid bowl; it will foam lightly.
Pour the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients and fold with your hand or a spoon only until no dry flour shows. The dough should be soft, oily, and easy to shape, not sticky. If it slumps badly, add the extra flour 1 tablespoon at a time, but don't make it stiff.
Take about 32g dough for each cookie. Flatten it in your palm into an oval, place 1 teaspoon walnut filling in the center, then close the dough around it and roll gently into a short date shape. Press the top lightly against the coarse side of a box grater or mark it with a fork, then set it seam-side down on the baking tray.
Bake for 24 to 28 minutes, until the finikia are deep golden at the edges and firm when lifted. They should not be pale. Let them stand on the tray for 5 minutes so they settle without breaking.
Working in batches, lower the warm finikia into the cool syrup for 35 to 45 seconds, turning once. Lift them out with a slotted spoon and set them on a tray. They should drink syrup but keep their shape. If they sit too long, they become heavy and soft all the way through.
Sprinkle the tops with the finely chopped walnuts while the surface is still tacky. Let the finikia rest at least 3 hours before serving, and overnight if you can. The syrup moves through the crumb and the filling settles into the cookie. Good olive oil, and patience.
1 serving (about 55g)
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