
Chef Margarida
Açorda de Camarão
The peasant bread soup of Alentejo dressed for company, sweet pink prawns swimming in a broth of garlic, coentros, and golden azeite. Humble origins, elegant result. This is who we are.
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The mountain feijoada of Trás-os-Montes, where every part of the pig goes into the pot with white beans and whatever the garden offers. Winter survival food that became a celebration.
This is not Brazilian feijoada. Não mexas nisso. This is the original, the mountain version from Trás-os-Montes, the remote northeastern corner of Portugal where winters are brutal and cooking evolved to keep people alive through them.
I didn't grow up with this dish. Avó Leonor was Alentejana, and her feijoada was simpler, more beans than meat. But when I started documenting recipes from grandmothers across Portugal, I spent two weeks in the villages around Bragança. Those grandmothers taught me what real feijoada looks like: a pot so full of different pork cuts you can barely see the beans, sausages bobbing on the surface, the smell of smoke and fat filling a stone kitchen.
In Trás-os-Montes, they use white beans, not the black beans you'll find in Brazil. They add everything: ear, trotter, belly, ribs, and then the sausages. Chouriço for smoke. Farinheira for texture. Morcela because nothing is wasted. Each element cooks at its own pace, which is why this dish takes time. You're conducting an orchestra of pork.
This is not weeknight cooking. This is Sunday cooking, winter cooking, the kind of meal you make when the family is coming and you want the house to smell like home. The pot feeds eight easily, and it's even better the next day. As avós sabem. The grandmothers know.
Feijoada à Transmontana predates its more famous Brazilian cousin, which was adapted by Portuguese colonizers using local black beans. The dish emerged from Trás-os-Montes' matança traditions, the annual pig slaughter that provided preserved meats to survive the harsh winters. Every family made their own sausages, and feijoada became the dish that brought all those preserved treasures together in one pot.
Quantity
500g
soaked overnight
Quantity
250g
cut into sections
Quantity
200g
cut into chunks
Quantity
1
cleaned and halved
Quantity
1
split lengthwise
Quantity
200g
Quantity
150g
Quantity
150g
Quantity
200g
in one piece
Quantity
1 large
quartered
Quantity
4
smashed
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 small bunch
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 small head
cut into wedges
Quantity
4 medium
peeled and halved lengthwise
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried white beans (feijão branco)soaked overnight | 500g |
| pork ribscut into sections | 250g |
| pork belly (entremeada)cut into chunks | 200g |
| pig earcleaned and halved | 1 |
| pig trottersplit lengthwise | 1 |
| chouriço de carne | 200g |
| farinheira | 150g |
| morcela | 150g |
| presunto or smoked baconin one piece | 200g |
| onionquartered | 1 large |
| garlic clovessmashed | 4 |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| fresh parsley stems | 1 small bunch |
| sweet paprika (colorau) | 1 teaspoon |
| Savoy cabbagecut into wedges | 1/2 small head |
| carrotspeeled and halved lengthwise | 4 medium |
| sea salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| cooked white rice | for serving |
Drain the soaked beans and set aside. In a very large pot, combine the pig ear, trotter, ribs, pork belly, and presunto with cold water to cover by about 8 centimeters. Bring to a boil over high heat. Skim off any foam that rises. Reduce heat to a steady simmer. These tough cuts need a head start. Let them cook for about 45 minutes while you prepare everything else.
After 45 minutes, add the drained beans to the pot along with the onion, garlic, bay leaves, parsley stems, and paprika. Add more water if needed to keep everything submerged. Return to a simmer. Cook for another hour, stirring occasionally. The beans should start to soften but still hold their shape. The broth will begin to turn creamy from the starch.
Pierce the chouriço and farinheira a few times with a fork. Add them to the pot. Do not add the morcela yet. It's delicate and needs less time. Continue simmering for 30 minutes. The kitchen will smell like smoke and pork and comfort.
Add the cabbage wedges and carrots to the pot. Nestle them down among the meats. Gently place the morcela on top. It should poach, not boil. Simmer for another 30 to 40 minutes until the vegetables are tender and the beans are completely soft but not falling apart. Taste the broth and season with salt and pepper. Go carefully with salt. The presunto and sausages have already contributed plenty.
Remove from heat and let the pot rest for 10 minutes. This allows everything to settle and the flavors to come together. Remove the meats and sausages to a large cutting board. Slice the sausages into thick rounds. Cut the presunto into chunks. Arrange the meats on a large warmed platter. Ladle the beans into a deep serving bowl, placing the cabbage and carrots around the edges. Serve with white rice on the side. Everyone builds their own plate.
1 serving (about 560g)
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