
Chef Juliana
Arroz de Carreteiro de Charque
You think salted beef and rice sound like trouble. Anota aí: soak the charque, brown it properly, build the refogado, and this one pot resolves dinner.
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You think leftover beans are a problem. They're not. They're a head start. Add a real refogado, a little cassava flour, and you solve dinner without pretending Tuesday is a banquet.
You know that quiet little voice, the one that looks at yesterday's beans and says isso não é pra mim? Tell it to sit down. This is exactly for you. Feijão mexido is not a trick, not a secret, not a talent. Cozinhar não é dom, é um aprendizado. You stir, you watch, you stop when it pega ponto.
I like this kind of food because it tells the truth about the Brazilian kitchen. The pê-efe, rice and beans, meat or egg, something green, is not filler. It's the plate that keeps a house fed and keeps a country recognizable to itself. Here, the beans move from the pot to the skillet, meet onion, garlic, a bit of sausage if you have it, and cassava flour until everything turns thick, savory, and spoonable.
The method is plain. Build the refogado until the onion murcha and smells sweet. Brown the sausage in a roomy pan so it douras instead of steaming grey and sad. Mash a ladle of beans into the refogado because mashed beans make the caldo creamy; flour alone can thicken, but it can't give you that glossy bean body. Then add the cassava flour slowly, like rain, because dumped flour makes lumps and nobody came here to eat cement.
Anota aí: yesterday's feijão is not leftovers behaving badly. It's comida de verdade doing what comida de verdade does best, feeding you twice.
Feijão mexido belongs to the practical bean-and-flour family found across Brazil, with close cousins like tutu in Minas Gerais and virado in São Paulo, but the gaúcho version is tied to the southern campeiro habit of turning cooked beans into a sturdy skillet dish with cassava flour and pork fat or sausage. In Rio Grande do Sul, dishes built from beans, flour, and cured meats traveled well in ranch and rural kitchens because they were filling, cheap, and could be made from what was already cooked. The debate is usually not whether it should be thick, but how thick: some homes keep it creamy enough to spoon, others stir it until it stands up like a proper side beside rice, couve, and grilled meat.
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
soaked overnight
Quantity
7 cups, plus more as needed
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons, plus more to taste
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 cup
diced
Quantity
1 medium
finely chopped
Quantity
3 cloves
minced
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
3/4 cup, plus more only if needed
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried black beans or carioca beanssoaked overnight | 1 1/2 cups |
| water | 7 cups, plus more as needed |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| salt | 1 1/2 teaspoons, plus more to taste |
| pork fat, bacon fat, or oil | 2 tablespoons |
| smoked sausage or linguiçadiced | 1 cup |
| onionfinely chopped | 1 medium |
| garlicminced | 3 cloves |
| black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fine cassava flour (farinha de mandioca) | 3/4 cup, plus more only if needed |
| parsley or green onion (optional)chopped | 2 tablespoons |
Put the beans in a bowl, cover with plenty of water, and leave them overnight, at least 8 hours. They should swell and look a little smoother by morning. Soaking isn't ceremony. It helps the beans cook evenly and sit easier in your stomach, which matters if a gente wants beans to stay in the everyday plate instead of becoming a once-a-month project.
Drain the soaked beans and put them in a heavy pot with 7 cups water and the bay leaves. Bring to a boil, then lower to a gentle simmer with the lid partly open. Cook until a bean crushes easily against the roof of your mouth, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Add the salt only when the beans are tender, because salting too early can make the skins stubborn. You want about 4 cups cooked beans with 1 to 1 1/2 cups caldo left in the pot.
Warm the fat in a wide skillet over medium heat. Add the diced sausage in one loose layer and cook until the edges are browned and the fat smells savory, 4 to 6 minutes. Give the pieces room. Crowd the pan and the meat releases water, the heat drops, and you steam it grey instead of dourar. Color is flavor, and Tuesday deserves flavor too.
Add the onion to the same skillet and cook, stirring now and then, until it murcha, turns soft, and picks up the browned bits from the sausage, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and black pepper and cook for 1 minute, just until you smell the garlic. Don't let it brown hard. Burnt garlic is bitter and bossy, and it will drag the whole skillet with it.
Scoop 1 cup of the cooked beans with some caldo into the refogado and mash them right in the skillet with the back of a spoon. The beans should break down into a thick paste around the onion and garlic. This is why the final feijão mexido tastes creamy instead of dusty. Cassava flour thickens, yes, but the mashed beans make the caldo glossy and alive.
Add the remaining cooked beans and about 1 cup of their caldo to the skillet. Stir gently so some beans stay whole and some melt into the base. Let it bubble quietly for 3 to 5 minutes, until the skillet looks juicy but not soupy. If it seems dry already, add a splash of water or caldo now, before the flour goes in.
Sprinkle in the cassava flour a little at a time, stirring constantly. Stop when the beans turn thick, spoonable, and hold ridges for a second before settling, usually 1/2 to 3/4 cup flour. Don't dump the whole cup in like you're angry at dinner. Flour swells as it sits, and too much turns creamy beans into a brick.
Taste and adjust the salt. Fold in parsley or green onion if using, then turn off the heat and let the skillet sit for 3 minutes. It should stand a spoon but still look moist, with whole beans showing through the cassava crumb. Serve beside arroz soltinho, sautéed couve, and an egg or grilled meat, and look at that: the pê-efe just solved itself.
1 serving (about 285g)
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Chef Juliana
You think salted beef and rice sound like trouble. Anota aí: soak the charque, brown it properly, build the refogado, and this one pot resolves dinner.

Chef Juliana
You think tough meat and wine mean "isso não é pra mim." Wrong. Brown the cheeks properly, build a real refogado, and let time turn a cheap cut into dinner that behaves like silk.

Chef Juliana
You don't need charque to resolver o jantar. Brown the pumpkin, build a smoky refogado, leave the rice alone, and this one pot gives you a Brazilian table without fuss.

Chef Juliana
You don't need bravery for this pan. You need heat, patience, and the sense to brown one thing at a time so dinner tastes like dinner.