
Chef Ally
Arugula with Shaved Pecorino and Lemon
Peppery arugula leaves tossed in nothing but fresh lemon and good olive oil, showered with curls of aged pecorino. A salad that proves the best cooking is knowing when to get out of the way.
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Sturdy, slightly bitter escarole leaves dressed in a bold vinaigrette where anchovy melts into garlic and good olive oil. A salad with backbone, meant to stand alone or follow a rich meal.
Escarole is a green that asks for confidence. It has a pleasant bitterness, a sturdy leaf that holds up to heat or, in this case, a dressing with real presence. When you mash anchovy and garlic together into a paste and let them dissolve into olive oil and lemon, you create something greater than the parts. The salt of the sea meets the bite of raw garlic, tempered by good fat and bright acid.
This is peasant food, Italian in its bones. The kind of dish you make when you have excellent greens and a few anchovies in the pantry. It requires almost nothing of you except attention to quality. The escarole must be fresh and alive, the anchovies worth eating on their own, the olive oil something you would happily drink from a spoon.
Look for escarole at your farmers' market in the cooler months. It thrives in fall and winter, growing sweeter after a frost. The heads should feel heavy, the outer leaves green and unblemished, the inner heart pale and tender. If you cannot find escarole, frisée or curly endive will carry the same bitter charm, though with a more delicate texture.
Quantity
1 large head (about 1 pound)
Quantity
4
rinsed and patted dry
Quantity
2 cloves
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
to taste
freshly cracked
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| escarole | 1 large head (about 1 pound) |
| salt-packed anchovy filletsrinsed and patted dry | 4 |
| garlic | 2 cloves |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| extra-virgin olive oil | 1/4 cup |
| fresh lemon juice | 2 tablespoons |
| Dijon mustard | 1/2 teaspoon |
| black pepperfreshly cracked | to taste |
Look for a head that feels heavy and tight, with outer leaves that are deep green and sturdy. The inner heart should be pale yellow and tender. Separate the leaves and wash them in several changes of cold water, swishing gently to release any grit hiding in the ruffled edges. Bitter greens grown close to the soil carry earth with them. Dry thoroughly in a salad spinner or between clean kitchen towels. Wet leaves reject dressing.
Place the anchovy fillets on your cutting board with the garlic cloves and a generous pinch of salt. Use the flat side of your knife to mash and scrape them together, pressing and smearing until you have a smooth, fragrant paste. The salt acts as an abrasive, breaking down the fibers. You should not see distinct pieces of anchovy when you are finished, just a savory smear that smells of the sea.
Scrape the anchovy paste into a small bowl. Add the Dijon mustard and lemon juice, whisking to combine. The mustard helps the dressing hold together. Pour in the olive oil in a slow stream, whisking constantly until the dressing emulsifies and looks creamy. Taste it. The anchovy provides salt, but you may want more. Add pepper. The dressing should be bold enough to stand up to the bitter greens.
Tear the escarole into rough, generous pieces. You want some heft to each bite. Place them in a wide bowl where you have room to toss without bruising. Pour the dressing over the leaves and use your hands to coat everything gently but thoroughly. Each leaf should glisten. Taste a piece. Adjust with more salt, pepper, or a squeeze of lemon if it needs brightness.
Transfer the dressed escarole to a serving platter or divide among plates. This salad must be eaten within minutes of dressing. The acid and salt will begin to soften the leaves, and you want that satisfying crunch, that slight bitterness meeting the savory depth of anchovy. Good food does not wait.
1 serving (about 140g)
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