
Chef Isabel
Asadillo Manchego
Asadillo Manchego is La Mancha's roasted pepper salad: red peppers, tomato, olive oil, garlic, and cumin, pounded plainly and served with egg, warm or cold.
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Ensalada Murciana is Murcia's cold tomato salad, made with preserved tomato, tuna, hard egg, sweet onion, and cuquillo olives. Use tinned tomato on purpose, not as a fallback.
Ensalada Murciana, also called moje murciano, belongs to Murcia: preserved tomato torn into a bowl with tuna, hard-boiled egg, sweet onion, black cuquillo olives, salt, and good olive oil. It is not a fresh tomato salad pretending to be summer. The tinned tomato is the point, soft and juicy from the jar, ready to make its own dressing in the bottom of the bowl.
The method that decides it is the tomato. Use whole peeled tomatoes in their juice, drain them enough that the salad isn't watery, then tear them by hand so they stay uneven and meaty. The onion sits with the tomato, salt, and oil for a few minutes, just long enough to lose its bite. Then the tuna, egg, and olives go on top. Bread will tell you if you got it right, because there should be a red, oily juice worth mopping.
If you're far from Murcia, no hace falta haber pisado España. Use good whole canned plum tomatoes, not diced ones, and black oil-cured olives if you can't find cuquillo. The flavor will be a little less sweet and Murcian, but the salad still knows where it's going. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Moje murciano comes from the hot, dry southeast, where tomatoes were preserved in jars at the height of the season so they could be eaten when fresh tomatoes were poor or gone. Murcia's huerta, the irrigated market garden around the Segura, made tomatoes, onions, olives, and preserved fish part of the everyday larder. The dish is also called mojete in parts of Murcia and neighboring La Mancha, but the Murcian bowl is marked by preserved tomato, tuna, hard egg, and dark cuquillo olives.
Quantity
800g
drained, juice reserved
Quantity
160g
drained lightly
Quantity
3
Quantity
120g
thinly sliced
Quantity
80g
Quantity
60ml
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
1 tablespoon, if needed
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole peeled tomatoes in juice, preferably Spanish tomato en conservadrained, juice reserved | 800g |
| tuna in olive oildrained lightly | 160g |
| large eggs | 3 |
| sweet onion or spring onionthinly sliced | 120g |
| cuquillo olives or black oil-cured olives | 80g |
| extra virgin olive oil | 60ml |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| reserved tomato juice (optional) | 1 tablespoon, if needed |
Put the eggs in a small pan, cover with cold water, and bring to a boil. Cook 10 minutes, then cool under cold water, peel, and cut into quarters. The yolks should be fully set but still yellow, not grey at the edge.
Set a sieve over a bowl and drain the whole peeled tomatoes for 5 minutes, keeping the juice. Tear the tomatoes into rough pieces with your hands and put them in a shallow serving bowl. Don't chop them small; moje wants soft, uneven pieces that hold oil and salt.
Add the sliced onion, salt, and olive oil to the tomato. Turn gently and let it sit for 5 minutes. That short rest is the little trick: the onion gives up its harshness, the tomato releases a red juice, and the oil becomes the dressing.
Break the tuna into large flakes over the tomato, then add the egg quarters and olives. Spoon a little of the red oil from the bottom over everything. If the salad looks dry, add 1 tablespoon of the reserved tomato juice, no more, or you'll thin the oil and lose the point.
Taste for salt and serve at cool room temperature, not fridge-cold. Put bread on the table for the juice in the bottom of the bowl. That's not extra. That's part of the dish, tal como se hace allí.
1 serving (about 240g)
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