
Chef Isabel
Asadillo Manchego
Asadillo Manchego is La Mancha's roasted pepper salad: red peppers, tomato, olive oil, garlic, and cumin, pounded plainly and served with egg, warm or cold.
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Ensalada Malagueña is Andalucía by way of Málaga: boiled potato, sweet winter orange, desalted salt cod, egg, green olives, and good olive oil, a cold salad where the balance does the cooking.
Ensalada Malagueña belongs to Málaga, and the thing that makes it itself is the meeting of boiled potato, sweet orange, salt cod, and green olives under a firm hand of olive oil. It isn't a lettuce salad. It is a composed winter salad, filling enough for lunch, bright enough for a hot table outdoors, and very much from the Andalusian south.
The method that decides it is the cod. Desalt it fully, then taste it before it ever reaches the bowl. If it is still harsh, the orange cannot save it; if it has gone flat from too much soaking, the salad loses its backbone. You want it cleanly salty, flaked through the potato, with the orange cutting it and the oil bringing everything together.
If you are far from Málaga, no hace falta haber pisado España. Use good salt cod sold in thick pieces, or a reliable desalted bacalao if that is what you can find. Aloreña olives are the local green olive here; if you cannot get them, use cracked green olives with a little bite, not black olives from a tin. Make it when oranges are sweet and heavy. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Ensalada Malagueña comes from Málaga and its inland and coastal kitchens, where salt cod from the preserved larder met the winter orange groves of the province. The local Aloreña de Málaga olive gives the salad its proper bitter-green bite, balancing the sweet orange and the soft potato. It belongs to the same Andalusian habit of making a meal from preserved fish, oil, bread, potatoes, and what the season gives.
Quantity
300g
desalted over 24 hours, skin and bones removed
Quantity
600g
scrubbed
Quantity
3
Quantity
3 large, about 600g total
peeled and sliced
Quantity
120g
pitted if you like
Quantity
80g
thinly sliced
Quantity
90ml
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
only if needed
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| salt coddesalted over 24 hours, skin and bones removed | 300g |
| waxy potatoesscrubbed | 600g |
| large eggs | 3 |
| sweet orangespeeled and sliced | 3 large, about 600g total |
| green olives, preferably Aloreña de Málagapitted if you like | 120g |
| spring onion or mild white onionthinly sliced | 80g |
| extra virgin olive oil | 90ml |
| vinagre de Jerez or white wine vinegar (optional) | 1 tablespoon |
| fine salt (optional) | only if needed |
| freshly ground black pepper (optional) | to taste |
Put the salt cod in a bowl, cover with plenty of cold water, and refrigerate for 24 hours, changing the water 3 times. Taste a tiny flake before you use it. It should be pleasantly salty, not biting. Pésalo, no lo adivines, and taste it too; this is the step that decides the salad.
Put the potatoes in a pan of cold salted water, bring to a gentle boil, and cook until a knife enters the center cleanly, about 20 to 25 minutes depending on size. In another small pan, boil the eggs for 10 minutes, then cool them in cold water. Drain the potatoes and let them cool until you can handle them, then peel and cut into thick slices.
Drain the cod well and pat it dry. If it is thick and tender after soaking, flake it raw into small pieces, tal como se hace allí in many homes. If you prefer it milder, or if your cod feels very firm, poach it for 2 minutes in barely simmering water, then drain and flake it. The poached version is softer and less assertive.
Cut away the peel and white pith from the oranges with a knife, then slice the fruit into rounds or half-moons, catching any juice. If the oranges are sour or dry, wait for better ones. This salad needs winter oranges with sweetness in them, or the cod and potato sit there like strangers.
Arrange the potato slices on a shallow serving plate. Scatter over the flaked cod, orange slices, sliced onion, and green olives. Peel and quarter the eggs and tuck them around the plate. Spoon any orange juice over the top, then dress with the olive oil and the vinegar if using.
Let the salad rest at room temperature for 20 minutes before serving so the potato drinks in the oil and orange juice. Taste before adding any salt; the cod and olives may have done the work already. Finish with black pepper if you like. Serve cool or at room temperature, never fridge-cold.
1 serving (about 450g)
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