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Created by Chef Lupita
Nayarit's cabbage slaw is the cold, creamy side that belongs beside fried Pacific fish, birria, and tostadas, with carrot, pineapple, lime, and crema doing quiet work.
Nayarit sits on the Pacific, with Tepic in the hills and San Blas facing the water, and this ensalada de col lives in that daily cooking between coast and market. It is not a showpiece. It is the bowl you set next to pescado frito, birria de chivo, tostadas de mariscos, or a stack of warm corn tortillas when the food needs something cool, crisp, and a little sweet.
The cabbage is cut thin. Thin, not chopped into lazy chunks. The carrot gives color, the pineapple gives the sweet bite you find in coastal home cooking, and the crema dressing needs lime and vinegar so it doesn't taste heavy. Nayarit cooks know fat. Fried fish, birria, chicharron, tacos dorados. This slaw cuts through it.
I learned a version like this from a woman near the Mercado Juan Escutia in Tepic, who salted the cabbage first and squeezed it with her hands before dressing it. That is the technique. Salt draws out water so the crema coats the cabbage instead of drowning in it. No me vengas con atajos. If you skip that step, you get soup in the bottom of the bowl.
This is a 32-state cuisine. A cabbage salad from Nayarit is not the same thing as a restaurant coleslaw with sugar dumped into mayonnaise. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
Quantity
1 small head, about 1 1/2 pounds
very thinly shredded
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
2 medium
peeled and grated
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| green cabbagevery thinly shredded | 1 small head, about 1 1/2 pounds |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| carrotspeeled and grated | 2 medium |
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