Tijuana's 1924 original from Caesar Cardini, whole romaine hearts dressed tableside with coddled egg, Mexican lime, Worcestershire, garlic, and Parmigiano. No anchovies. Eaten with the hands, leaf by leaf.
Salads
Mexican
Date Night
Dinner Party
Special Occasion
20 min
Active Time
10 min cook•30 min total
Yield4 servings
This is a Baja California dish. Tijuana, to be exact. Caesar Cardini, an Italian immigrant who ran Hotel Caesar's on Avenida Revolucion, invented it on July 4, 1924, when his kitchen was overrun on a holiday weekend and he had to build a salad from what was on the line. Mexican territory, Italian hands, American customers crossing the border during Prohibition. That is the origin of the most famous salad in the world, and it is Mexican.
The original has no anchovies. Read that again. The salty backbone in Cardini's salad came from Worcestershire, salsa inglesa, not from anchovy fillets. The anchovy version is a later New York adaptation that took over the rest of the world. In Tijuana, at the same restaurant where it was born, they still make it the original way and they will correct you if you ask for anchovies. The acid is Mexican lime, not lemon. The cheese is Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated to order. The egg is coddled for one minute, no more. The leaves are whole.
This is also a tableside dish. Cardini built it in front of the guests on a wooden cart wheeled to the table, and that is still how Hotel Caesar's serves it almost a hundred years later. The bowl is wooden. The cook talks while she works. The salad is assembled, dressed, and plated in front of you, and you eat the leaves with your hands, holding the rib, working from base to tip. La cocina no es decoracion, es trabajo. This salad is the proof. Cada estado, su propia cocina, and Baja California's most famous contribution to the world is a salad that nobody outside Tijuana makes correctly.
Caesar Cardini and his brother Alex emigrated from Lake Maggiore, Italy, and opened Hotel Caesar's in Tijuana in 1923, capitalizing on American Prohibition tourism that brought Hollywood and San Diego elite across the border for legal alcohol and dining. The salad's documented birth date is July 4, 1924, when an unexpected holiday rush forced Cardini to improvise from kitchen staples; his original recipe contained no anchovies, deriving its umami depth from Worcestershire sauce, and used whole romaine leaves designed to be eaten by hand. The International Society of Epicures in Paris named it the greatest recipe to come out of the Americas in fifty years in 1953, by which point New York and Hollywood had claimed it culturally even though Hotel Caesar's, still operating on Avenida Revolucion in Tijuana, has continuously served the original since the day it was created.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
day-old bolillo or country breadtorn into rough 1-inch pieces
2 cups
large eggsvery fresh
2
Worcestershire sauce (salsa inglesa)
1 tablespoon
Mexican lime juice
from 1 large lime, about 2 tablespoons
Dijon-style mustard (optional)not in the 1924 original
1/2 teaspoon
freshly ground black pepper
to taste
Parmigiano-Reggianofinely grated
1/2 cup, plus more for the table
whole wedges of Mexican lime (optional)
for serving
Equipment Needed
•Wide wooden salad bowl, ideally one with a salt-cured patina from years of use
•Heavy skillet for the croutons
•Slotted spoon for the eggs
•Box grater or microplane for the Parmigiano
•Sturdy fork for crushing the garlic and emulsifying the dressing
Instructions
1
Prepare the romaine
Discard the bruised outer leaves. Pull the inner leaves off whole, one by one, and rinse them in very cold water. Spin them dry, then wrap them in a clean kitchen towel and refrigerate for at least 20 minutes. Cold, crisp, dry leaves are non-negotiable. Wet leaves dilute the dressing and limp leaves cannot carry it. The original is eaten with the hands, leaf by leaf, so each leaf needs to stand up on its own.
Do not chop the romaine. Cardini served whole leaves and that is how it is still served at Hotel Caesar's in Avenida Revolucion. Chopped Caesar is a different dish.
2
Make the garlic croutons
Smash 2 of the garlic cloves with the side of a knife. Warm 1/4 cup of the olive oil in a heavy skillet over medium heat with the smashed garlic. Let the garlic sizzle for a minute, never browning, just perfuming the oil. Fish the garlic out and discard. Add the torn bread and toss to coat. Toast over medium heat, turning often, until the pieces are golden on all sides and crisp through the middle, about 6 to 8 minutes. Salt them lightly the moment they come off the heat.
3
Coddle the eggs
Bring a small pot of water to a gentle boil, then turn off the heat. Lower the eggs in with a slotted spoon and let them sit, off the heat, for exactly one minute. The white sets at the edges and the yolk stays loose and warm. This is the binder of the dressing. A raw egg gives you a thin, soupy salad. A hard egg gives you nothing. One minute, off the heat. Asi se hace y punto.
Use the freshest eggs you can buy. The whole dish hinges on this one ingredient and there is no hiding a tired egg behind the rest of it.
4
Build the dressing in the bowl
In a wide wooden salad bowl, mince the remaining 2 garlic cloves with the salt, then crush them against the bottom of the bowl with the back of a fork until they form a rough paste. Add the Worcestershire and the lime juice. Crack the coddled eggs directly into the bowl, scooping out the soft white with a spoon. Whisk with the fork until the egg breaks up and the dressing turns pale and thick. Slowly stream in the remaining 1/4 cup of olive oil, whisking the whole time, until the dressing emulsifies and clings to the fork.
5
Toss the leaves
Add the cold romaine leaves to the bowl, whole. Toss with two large spoons or, better, with your hands. Lift the leaves and turn them through the dressing until every one is coated, top and bottom. The dressing should cling, not pool at the bottom. If it pools, your leaves were wet. Grind black pepper generously over the top and toss once more.
If you are making this tableside, the way Cardini did, do every step in front of your guests in a wide wooden bowl. The performance is part of the dish. The original was a show as much as a salad.
6
Finish and serve
Scatter the warm garlic croutons over the leaves and shower with the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Toss one last time, lightly. Pile the leaves onto chilled plates with the stem ends pointing out, the way they do it at Hotel Caesar's, so each guest picks them up by the rib and eats them with the hands. Pass extra Parmigiano and lime wedges at the table. Eat immediately. A Caesar that sits is a Caesar wasted.
Chef Tips
•The egg is the recipe. One minute in just-off-the-boil water, no more. A raw egg gives you a soupy dressing, a hard egg gives you nothing to bind with. If you cannot find very fresh eggs, use pasteurized in-shell eggs. This is the only substitution that does not damage the dish.
•Use Mexican lime (lima mexicana, the small green ones), not lemon. Cardini was working in Tijuana with what the mercado was selling, and what the mercado sells is lime. Lemon makes a different salad, and not a better one.
•No anchovies. I will say it again. No anchovies. If you want anchovies, you are making the New York adaptation, which is a fine salad but it is not Cardini's. Defend the original. Worcestershire is the salt and the umami, and it is enough.
•If you can wheel a cart to the table and dress it in front of your guests, do it. The tableside ritual is half the dish. A Caesar built in the kitchen and brought out on a plate has lost the show that made it famous in the first place.
Advance Preparation
•The croutons can be made up to 4 hours ahead and held at room temperature in an open bowl. Sealed in a container, they soften.
•The romaine leaves can be washed, dried, and refrigerated wrapped in a kitchen towel up to 6 hours ahead. The colder and drier, the better.
•The dressing must be made at the moment of serving. Caesar dressing built ahead loses the loft of the freshly coddled egg and the brightness of the lime. No me vengas con atajos.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 245g)
Calories
420 calories
Total Fat
33 g
Saturated Fat
7 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
24 g
Cholesterol
105 mg
Sodium
975 mg
Total Carbohydrates
19 g
Dietary Fiber
3 g
Sugars
2 g
Protein
11 g
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