
Chef Lupita
Buñuelos Tabasqueños
Tabasco's posada-season buñuelos are thin rectangular wheat pastries fried until blistered, then finished with canela sugar or a dark miel de piloncillo that belongs on the holiday table.
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Highland Chiapas empanadas from Comitán, folded around pineapple cooked down with piloncillo and canela, then baked until the pastry is pale gold, tender, and firm enough for a market basket.
Chiapas, the highlands, Comitán de Domínguez. That is where these empanadas live. Not in the north with flour tortillas and beef, not in a tourist bakery with sugar piled on everything. These are panadería empanadas from the cold mornings of Comitán, where a basket of sweet bread sits under a cloth napkin and the coffee is strong enough to behave itself.
The filling is pineapple cooked down with piloncillo and canela until it becomes a thick preserve, not a loose jam. That matters. If the filling runs, the empanada opens. If the pastry is too sweet, it fights the fruit. The women who make these well know the balance by touch: dough that rolls without cracking, filling that mounds without leaking, edges pressed hard enough to survive the oven.
I learned this version from a señora near the market in Comitán who measured the manteca with her hand and laughed when I asked for grams. Fine. I wrote the grams anyway, because students need measurements before they earn instinct. La manteca es el sabor, even in sweet bread. It gives the dough tenderness and that panadería smell you cannot fake.
No me vengas con atajos. Cook the pineapple until the spoon leaves a path across the pan. Rest the dough. Seal the edges. This is comfort food, yes, but comfort is still work. Saber cocinar es saber vivir.
Comitán de Domínguez sits in the Chiapas highlands near the Guatemalan border, a region where wheat-based pan dulce became common through colonial milling and later bakery traditions, while tropical fruits from lower elevations moved through local markets. Pineapple, native to the Americas, was already cultivated before Spanish contact and became a favored preserve fruit because its acidity holds up against piloncillo and canela. These empanadas belong to the broader southern Mexican bakery world shared by Chiapas and Tabasco, but the Comitán version is recognized for its sturdy baked dough and thick pineapple filling meant to travel in baskets.
Quantity
4 cups
plus more for rolling
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
3/4 cup
cool but soft
Quantity
2
Quantity
1/2 cup
plus 1 to 2 tablespoons more if needed
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 large
peeled, cored, and finely diced, about 4 cups
Quantity
8 ounces
grated or chopped small
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 strip
green part only
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
mixed with 1 tablespoon water
Quantity
1
beaten with 1 tablespoon milk, for brushing
Quantity
2 tablespoons
for sprinkling
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flourplus more for rolling | 4 cups |
| granulated sugar | 1/2 cup |
| baking powder | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| pork lard (manteca de cerdo)cool but soft | 3/4 cup |
| large eggs | 2 |
| whole milkplus 1 to 2 tablespoons more if needed | 1/2 cup |
| vanilla extract | 1 teaspoon |
| ripe pineapplepeeled, cored, and finely diced, about 4 cups | 1 large |
| piloncillograted or chopped small | 8 ounces |
| Mexican canela stick | 1 |
| lime peelgreen part only | 1 strip |
| fresh lime juice | 1 tablespoon |
| cornstarchmixed with 1 tablespoon water | 1 tablespoon |
| egg yolkbeaten with 1 tablespoon milk, for brushing | 1 |
| granulated sugarfor sprinkling | 2 tablespoons |
Put the diced pineapple, piloncillo, canela, and lime peel in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Stir until the piloncillo melts and the fruit begins to release its juice. Cook, stirring often, for 30 to 35 minutes, until the pineapple turns glossy amber and the syrup thickens. You are making a preserve, not a sauce.
Remove the canela stick and lime peel. Stir in the lime juice. Add the cornstarch slurry and cook 2 to 3 minutes more, until the filling is thick enough that a spoon dragged across the pan leaves a clear path for a second. Spread the filling on a plate and cool completely. Warm filling melts the dough and opens the empanadas in the oven. Así se hace y punto.
In a wide bowl, whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Rub in the manteca with your fingertips until the mixture looks sandy with a few pea-sized bits left. Beat the eggs, milk, and vanilla together, then pour them into the flour. Mix with your hand until a soft dough forms. It should feel tender, not sticky. If dry flour remains, add milk one tablespoon at a time.
Turn the dough onto the counter and knead it 8 to 10 times, just until smooth. Do not work it like bolillo dough. This is pastry. Wrap it and rest at room temperature for 30 minutes. The rest lets the flour hydrate and keeps the circles from shrinking when you roll them.
Heat the oven to 375F. Line two baking sheets with parchment. Divide the dough into 16 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a ball, then roll into a 5-inch circle on a lightly floured surface. Keep the other pieces covered while you work so they do not dry at the edges.
Place 1 heaping tablespoon of cooled pineapple filling slightly off center on each dough circle. Fold the dough over into a half-moon and press the edges firmly with your fingertips. Crimp with a fork or make a small repulgue with your fingers. Do not overfill. A greedy empanada leaks, and then you blame the recipe. No.
Set the empanadas on the prepared baking sheets with space between them. Brush lightly with the egg yolk and milk mixture, then sprinkle with sugar. Bake for 22 to 26 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through, until the tops are pale gold and the sealed edges feel firm. They should not brown like cookies. Comitán panadería pastry stays gentle in color.
Let the empanadas rest on the baking sheets for 10 minutes, then move them to a rack. The filling is hottest at the center and needs time to settle. Serve warm or at room temperature with café de olla or Chiapas coffee. Recetas probadas y garantizadas.
1 serving (about 95g)
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