
Chef Jeong-sun
Aehobak-namul (Seasoned Korean Zucchini)
Tender Korean summer zucchini softened gently in the pan with saeujeot for salt and depth, finished with sesame so the vegetable stays sweet, green, and plainly itself.
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The first angelica shoots of spring, trimmed carefully, blanched stem-first, and served warm with chojang so their clean bitterness stays clear and alive.
Dureup belongs to a narrow door in spring. You see it at the market for a few weeks, bundled like small green brushes, and then it is gone. Cook the month you're standing in. If it isn't spring and the shoots look tired, choose another namul tonight and wait for this one properly.
This dish lives or dies in the blanching. The stem is thick, the leaf bud is tender, and they cannot be treated as one body. Stem first, then the whole shoot. My teacher made me count out loud the first time, not because counting was holy, but because overcooked dureup loses the clean bitterness that makes it worth buying.
There is no heavy seasoning here. A little salt, a little sesame oil, toasted sesame, and chojang (vinegared gochujang) on the side. That is enough. 정성이 첫째예요. Sincerity comes first, and with a spring shoot this expensive, sincerity means restraint.
Dureup, the young shoot of the Korean angelica tree, has long been gathered as a spring sanchae, or mountain vegetable, especially in Korea's upland regions where seasonal greens marked the turn out of winter. It is commonly served as dureup-sukhoe, briefly blanched and eaten with chojang, a preparation that preserves its bitterness instead of hiding it. Its high price in modern markets comes from the short harvest window and the labor of gathering or cultivating shoots before the buds open too far.
Quantity
300g
tough bases trimmed, thorny outer bits scraped if needed
Quantity
6 cups
for blanching
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 small clove
finely grated
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fresh dureup (angelica tree shoots)tough bases trimmed, thorny outer bits scraped if needed | 300g |
| waterfor blanching | 6 cups |
| coarse sea salt | 1 tablespoon |
| toasted sesame oil | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| toasted sesame seeds | 1 teaspoon |
| gochujang (Korean red chili paste) | 2 tablespoons |
| rice vinegar | 1 tablespoon |
| maesil-cheong (green plum syrup) or honey | 1 teaspoon |
| sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| soy sauce | 1 teaspoon |
| garlicfinely grated | 1 small clove |
Cut away the dry woody base of each dureup shoot, usually 5 to 8 mm. If the stems are thick or thorny, scrape only the rough outside with the back of a knife. Do not peel them bare. That faint bitterness is the reason you waited for spring.
Rinse the shoots in a bowl of cold water, lifting them out instead of pouring the grit back over them. Check between the leaf buds. Dureup comes from the market still behaving like the mountain, and it often carries a little soil.
Stir together the gochujang, rice vinegar, maesil-cheong or honey, sugar, soy sauce, and grated garlic until glossy. Taste it. It should be sharp first, then lightly sweet, not sugary. The sauce is for dipping, not burying, so keep it bright and measured.
Bring 6 cups water to a full boil and add 1 tablespoon coarse sea salt. Hold the shoots by the leafy tips and lower the stems into the water for 30 seconds first, then release the whole shoots and blanch 1 to 2 minutes more. Thick stems may need the full 2 minutes; thin shoots need less. The stem should bend, but still answer back under your teeth.
Lift the shoots into cold water for 20 seconds only, just long enough to stop the cooking and set the green color. Drain well and press them gently in a towel. Do not wring them. Bruised dureup turns dull and tastes tired.
Put the drained shoots in their own bowl and toss with 1 teaspoon sesame oil and 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt. Taste one stem before you add anything else. Each namul gets seasoned alone, because dureup needs less help than spinach and much less than bracken. Let it taste like itself.
Arrange the shoots in one direction on a small plate and scatter the toasted sesame seeds over them. Serve warm or at room temperature with the chojang beside it for dipping. Write down the blanching time that matched your market's shoots. 손맛 is real; I measure it anyway.
1 serving (about 90g)
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