Dry-Rubbed Smoky Chipotle Wings

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large rimmed baking sheet
• •Wire cooling rack that fits inside the baking sheet
• •Large mixing bowl

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare your wings

   Pat the wing pieces aggressively dry with paper towels. This step determines everything that follows. Wet skin steams. Dry skin crisps. I mean aggressively: press those towels into every crevice, flip the pieces, and go again. If you bought wings whole, separate them at the joints and discard the tips (or freeze them for stock).

   Wings from the butcher counter are typically fresher and less waterlogged than bagged frozen wings. The difference shows in the final crispness.
2. 2

   Apply the crisping coat

   In a large bowl, toss the dried wings with the baking powder and one teaspoon of kosher salt until evenly coated. The baking powder looks like too little to matter, but it works on a molecular level, pulling moisture from the skin and raising its pH to promote browning. Aluminum-free baking powder prevents any metallic aftertaste.

3. 3

   Build the chipotle rub

   Combine the chipotle powder, smoked paprika, brown sugar, cumin, garlic powder, onion powder, oregano, black pepper, and cayenne if using. Whisk thoroughly until the brown sugar breaks up and distributes evenly. The mixture should smell deeply smoky with a gentle undercurrent of heat. This makes about a quarter cup of rub.

   Make a triple batch of this rub and store it in a jar. It keeps for months and transforms pork chops, grilled corn, and roasted sweet potatoes with equal authority.
4. 4

   Coat the wings

   Add three tablespoons of the spice rub to the baking powder-coated wings. Toss vigorously with your hands, pressing the spices into the skin. Every surface should be covered in that brick-red mixture. The residual moisture on the wings helps the rub adhere. Reserve remaining rub for finishing if desired.

5. 5

   Arrange for baking

   Set a wire rack inside a rimmed baking sheet lined with foil for easy cleanup. Arrange wings in a single layer on the rack, leaving a finger's width between pieces. Air must circulate beneath and around each wing. Crowded wings steam; spaced wings crisp. Refrigerate uncovered for at least one hour, or overnight for the crispiest results.

   The overnight rest in the refrigerator dries the skin surface further. If you have the time, take the time. The difference is remarkable.
6. 6

   Bake low then high

   Position a rack in the upper third of your oven and preheat to 250°F. Bake the wings for 30 minutes at this low temperature to render fat from beneath the skin. Then increase heat to 425°F and continue baking until deeply bronzed and crisp, another 20 to 25 minutes. The skin should crackle audibly when you tap it with a fingernail.

7. 7

   Rest and serve

   Let wings rest on the rack for five minutes. The internal juices redistribute while the skin sets. Transfer to a warm platter, dust with any remaining spice rub if the coating looks faded, and surround with lime wedges. Scatter cilantro over the top if you're so inclined. These need no sauce, no dip, nothing but napkins and cold beer.

Chef Tips

• •Chipotle powder is dried, ground smoked jalapeño. If you can't find it, substitute one tablespoon smoked paprika plus one tablespoon ancho chile powder. The flavor profile shifts slightly, but the smokiness remains honest.
• •Mexican oregano has citrus notes that complement the chipotle beautifully. Mediterranean oregano works in a pinch, but seek out the Mexican variety at Latin markets or online. It's worth finding.
• •For larger parties, work in batches rather than crowding your sheet pans. Wings touching create steam pockets that destroy crispness. Two batches done properly beats one batch of soggy wings.
• •A squeeze of fresh lime just before eating brightens everything. The acid cuts through the fat and wakes up the spices. Don't skip the limes.

Advance Preparation

• •The spice rub keeps in an airtight container for up to 3 months. Make extra. You'll use it.
• •Wings can be coated with baking powder, salt, and rub up to 24 hours before baking. Refrigerate uncovered on the wire rack. This advance prep actually improves results.
• •For party timing: bake wings through the low-heat phase up to 2 hours ahead. Hold at room temperature, then blast at 425°F for the final 20 to 25 minutes just before serving.
• •Leftover wings reheat well in a 400°F oven for 8 to 10 minutes. The microwave is not your friend here.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 340g)