
Chef Jeong-sun
Baechu-jeon (배추전, Napa Cabbage Pancake)
A Gyeongsang home pancake made from one whole napa cabbage leaf at a time, flattened at the rib, brushed in thin salted batter, and fried until sweet, tender, and quietly crisp at the edges.
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Whole jjokpa scallions laid in rice-flour batter, topped with seafood, beef, and egg, then pan-fried soft and generous in the old Dongnae style of Busan.
The misunderstanding is useful to correct first: Dongnae-pajeon is not the thin, hard-edged bar pancake people tear apart with makgeolli. That one has its place. This Busan pancake is softer, thicker, and more generous, whole jjokpa scallions laid down like a mat, rice-flour batter poured lightly, seafood and a little beef tucked in, egg finishing the top until it sets tender.
Dongnae-pajeon belongs to Dongnae, the old administrative center north of Busan's harbor, where small scallions and coastal seafood met the cooking of market houses and official tables. Local accounts connect the dish to the late Joseon period, when Dongnae officials are said to have sent the area's scallion pancake as a regional specialty to the court, though the exact court record is not as neat as people like to claim. In modern Busan it became a named local dish, especially around Dongnae market restaurants, distinguished from ordinary pajeon by whole jjokpa, rice-flour batter, seafood, beef, and an egg-softened finish.
Quantity
220g
trimmed to 8 to 9 inches
Quantity
120g
drained well and chopped bite-size
Quantity
80g
sliced into thin matchsticks
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for seasoning beef
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for seasoning beef
Quantity
1 small clove
minced, for beef
Quantity
1/8 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
3/4 cup
Quantity
2 large
beaten
Quantity
1
thinly sliced on the diagonal
Quantity
1
thinly sliced on the diagonal
Quantity
4 tablespoons
divided
Quantity
2 tablespoons
for dipping sauce
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for dipping sauce
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for dipping sauce
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
pinch
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| jjokpa (Korean small scallions)trimmed to 8 to 9 inches | 220g |
| mixed seafooddrained well and chopped bite-size | 120g |
| beef sirloinsliced into thin matchsticks | 80g |
| soy saucefor seasoning beef | 1 teaspoon |
| toasted sesame oilfor seasoning beef | 1 teaspoon |
| garlicminced, for beef | 1 small clove |
| black pepper | 1/8 teaspoon |
| rice flour | 1/2 cup |
| all-purpose flour | 1/4 cup |
| sweet rice flour | 2 tablespoons |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| cold water | 3/4 cup |
| eggsbeaten | 2 large |
| red chilithinly sliced on the diagonal | 1 |
| green chilithinly sliced on the diagonal | 1 |
| neutral oildivided | 4 tablespoons |
| soy saucefor dipping sauce | 2 tablespoons |
| rice vinegar | 1 tablespoon |
| waterfor dipping sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| minced scallionfor dipping sauce | 1 teaspoon |
| toasted sesame seeds | 1/2 teaspoon |
| gochugaru (Korean chili flakes) (optional) | pinch |
Wash the jjokpa and trim the roots, keeping the white and green parts whole. Cut only if they are longer than your pan, about 8 to 9 inches is right. Pat them very dry. Wet scallions make the batter slide off, and then you have fried onion grass instead of pajeon.
Mix the beef with 1 teaspoon soy sauce, 1 teaspoon sesame oil, the minced garlic, and black pepper. Let it sit 10 minutes while you make the batter. The beef should season the pancake quietly, not turn the whole pan into bulgogi.
Pat the seafood dry on a towel and cut large pieces bite-size. This matters more than people admit. Seafood carries water, and water loosens the batter, so drain it before it ever meets the pan.
Whisk the rice flour, all-purpose flour, sweet rice flour, salt, and cold water until smooth but still loose, like thin cream. Do not make a thick pancake batter. Dongnae-pajeon should settle around the scallions and set softly, with the rice flour giving tenderness and chew.
Heat a 10-inch nonstick or well-seasoned skillet over medium heat and add 2 tablespoons oil. Spoon in 1/4 cup batter, then lay half the scallions side by side across the pan, whites alternating left and right so the pancake cooks evenly. Spoon another 1/4 cup batter over them. The scallions are the body of the dish; the batter is only there to hold them.
Scatter half the seafood, half the seasoned beef, and half the sliced chilies over the scallions. Press them lightly with the spatula so they settle into the batter. Cook 3 to 4 minutes, until the bottom is set and pale golden at the edges.
Spoon half the beaten egg over the top, letting it run between the scallions and toppings. This is the Dongnae habit people miss when they chase only crispness. The egg sets the top soft and custardy, binding the seafood and beef without burying the scallions.
When the bottom holds together, slide a wide spatula under the pancake and turn it in one confident motion. If your pan is small or your courage is honest, slide it onto a plate, invert the pan over it, and flip both together. Cook 3 minutes more, pressing gently once or twice, until the egg is set and the seafood is cooked through.
Turn the pancake back scallion-side up for 30 seconds if you want the top neater. It should be golden in patches, soft at the center, and lightly crisp only at the edges. Repeat with the remaining batter, scallions, toppings, egg, and oil.
Stir together 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon rice vinegar, 1 tablespoon water, minced scallion, sesame seeds, and a pinch of gochugaru if using. Cut the pajeon into broad squares and serve at once with the sauce. The vinegar wakes up the oil and egg, so do not skip it.
1 serving (about 215g)
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