
Chef Ally
All-Butter Croissants
Shatteringly crisp, impossibly tender, and layered with the finest butter you can find. Two days of patience rewarded with the most honest croissant you will ever bake.
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A towering pie of orchard apples, fragrant with cinnamon and nutmeg, wrapped in shatteringly flaky butter crust and finished with a brush of reduced cider that makes the whole thing gleam.
Start at the orchard. The apples you choose determine everything. A good pie wants a mix: some that hold their shape when baked, others that collapse into sauce around them. I like a combination of firm, tart varieties with one that softens completely. Ask the farmer what she recommends. She knows her fruit.
The crust matters almost as much. Cold butter, ice water, and a light hand. You are not kneading bread. You are building layers of fat and flour that will steam and separate in the oven, creating those flaky strata that shatter when you press a fork through. If you can see streaks of butter in your dough before rolling, you are on the right path.
Deep-dish means abundance. Pile the apples high, dome them in the center, trust that they will slump as they cook. The cider glaze is the simplest kind of finishing: fresh cider reduced to a syrup and brushed on while the crust is still warm. It adds shine and a concentrated apple essence that ties everything together.
Every meal is a meaningful choice. This pie tastes like autumn because autumn grew the apples. The connection between the fruit and the farmer and your kitchen table is what makes it worth the effort.
Quantity
2 1/2 cups (315g)
plus more for rolling
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 cup (2 sticks/226g)
cut into 1/2-inch cubes
Quantity
1/2 cup, plus more if needed
Quantity
4 pounds (about 10-12 medium)
Quantity
3/4 cup (150g)
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
freshly grated
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
cut into small pieces
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2 cups
Quantity
for sprinkling
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flour (for crust)plus more for rolling | 2 1/2 cups (315g) |
| granulated sugar (for crust) | 1 tablespoon |
| fine sea salt (for crust) | 1 teaspoon |
| cold unsalted butter (for crust)cut into 1/2-inch cubes | 1 cup (2 sticks/226g) |
| ice water | 1/2 cup, plus more if needed |
| mixed apples | 4 pounds (about 10-12 medium) |
| granulated sugar (for filling) | 3/4 cup (150g) |
| all-purpose flour (for filling) | 2 tablespoons |
| ground cinnamon | 1 teaspoon |
| nutmegfreshly grated | 1/4 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt (for filling) | 1/4 teaspoon |
| fresh lemon juice | 1 tablespoon |
| cold unsalted butter (for filling)cut into small pieces | 2 tablespoons |
| large egg | 1 |
| heavy cream or whole milk | 1 tablespoon |
| fresh apple cider | 2 cups |
| turbinado sugar | for sprinkling |
Whisk the flour, sugar, and salt together in a large bowl. Add the cold butter cubes and toss to coat each piece with flour. Using your fingertips or a pastry blender, work the butter into the flour until you have a mix of pea-sized pieces and some larger, flattened shards. These irregular sizes create layers. Do not overwork. Your hands are warm; the butter is not.
Drizzle the ice water over the flour mixture, tossing with a fork as you go. Add water gradually until the dough just comes together when pressed. It will look shaggy and rough. Squeeze a handful: if it holds, stop. If it crumbles, add another tablespoon of water. Divide the dough in two, one portion slightly larger than the other. Shape into flat disks, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate at least one hour.
Pour two cups of fresh apple cider into a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and let it reduce until only about one third of a cup remains, thick enough to coat a spoon. This takes twenty to thirty minutes. The kitchen will smell of concentrated autumn. Set aside to cool while you prepare the filling.
Peel, core, and slice the apples about a quarter inch thick. You want slices substantial enough to hold some shape, thin enough to cook through. Place in a large bowl. Add the sugar, flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, and lemon juice. Toss gently with your hands until every slice is coated. Let sit while you roll the crust. The fruit will release some juice; this is good.
Remove the larger dough disk from the refrigerator. On a floured surface, roll it into a round about fourteen inches across and an eighth inch thick. Drape over a nine or ten inch deep-dish pie plate, pressing gently into the corners. Leave the overhang for now. Return to the refrigerator while you roll the top crust.
Roll the smaller disk into a round about twelve inches across. You can leave it whole for a solid top or cut decorative vents. I prefer a simple lattice or a few slashes with a sharp knife. Transfer to a parchment-lined sheet and refrigerate until firm, about fifteen minutes.
Heap the seasoned apple slices into the chilled crust, mounding them higher in the center. The pile will seem enormous. Trust it. Dot the surface with the cold butter pieces. Pour any accumulated juices from the bowl over the apples.
Drape the top crust over the apples. Trim the edges to leave about an inch of overhang. Fold the top crust under the bottom crust overhang and crimp firmly to seal. Use your fingers or a fork. The seal prevents juices from bubbling out the sides. Cut vents if you chose a solid top.
Beat the egg with the cream until smooth. Brush this wash generously over the entire top crust and along the crimped edges. Sprinkle turbinado sugar over the surface. The sugar will sparkle and crunch when baked. Refrigerate the assembled pie for twenty minutes while the oven heats.
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and place a foil-lined baking sheet on it to catch drips. Heat the oven to 425°F. Set the pie on the hot sheet and bake for twenty minutes. Reduce temperature to 375°F and continue baking until the crust is deeply golden and juices bubble thickly through the vents, another fifty to fifty-five minutes. If the edges brown too quickly, shield them with foil.
Remove the pie from the oven and immediately brush the warm crust with the reduced cider glaze. Use a light hand; you want shine, not drips. Let the pie cool on a wire rack for at least two hours before slicing. The filling needs time to set. Cutting too soon means a soupy mess, however tempting the aroma may be.
1 serving (about 170g)
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