
Chef Dimitra
Aegean Island Kakavia (Κακαβιά)
Aegean kakavia is the fisherman’s soup named for the pot itself: small rockfish, potato, onion, lemon, and enough olive oil to turn a poor catch rich.
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Cyprus gives trahanas its sour milk bite and halloumi its place in the pot: a thick winter soup, salty at the edges, brightened with lemon.
Trahanas me Halloumi belongs to Cyprus: sour cracked-wheat trahanas cooked down into a thick soup, then finished with cubes of halloumi that soften in the heat. It isn't the loose mainland trahana soup I grew up seeing in northern kitchens. The region is the dish's surname.
The sourness is what makes it itself. Cypriot trahanas is made with fermented sheep or goat milk and wheat, dried hard for keeping, then brought back to life in the pot. Soak it briefly before simmering and it opens evenly, turning the soup creamy instead of grainy. That's the whole trick.
Use water if you want the older, plain kitchen version. Use light chicken stock if you want a fuller bowl. Either way, the halloumi goes in at the end, not at the start, because it should soften and season the soup without turning tough. A squeeze of lemon wakes everything up. Good olive oil, and patience.
Cypriot trahanas is traditionally made by cooking cracked wheat with soured sheep or goat milk, shaping it, and drying it in the summer sun so milk could be carried into the winter kitchen. The pairing with halloumi is distinctly Cypriot, joining two preserved dairy foods from the island in one pot. Halloumi received EU PDO registration in 2021, but this soup long predates the paperwork.
Quantity
250g
broken into small pieces
Quantity
1.5L
Quantity
1
peeled and left whole
Quantity
1
Quantity
200g
cut into 1.5cm cubes
Quantity
1 tbsp
plus more to finish
Quantity
1 tbsp
plus wedges to serve
Quantity
1/2 tsp
plus more only if needed
Quantity
1/2 tsp
Quantity
1 tsp
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Cypriot sour trahanas (τραχανάς)broken into small pieces | 250g |
| chicken stock or water | 1.5L |
| small onionpeeled and left whole | 1 |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| halloumi (χαλλούμι)cut into 1.5cm cubes | 200g |
| extra virgin olive oilplus more to finish | 1 tbsp |
| lemon juiceplus wedges to serve | 1 tbsp |
| fine sea saltplus more only if needed | 1/2 tsp |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 tsp |
| dried mint (optional) | 1 tsp |
Put the broken trahanas in a bowl and cover it with 500ml of the stock or water for 20 minutes. This short soak is the step that decides the texture: the sour wheat softens evenly, so the soup turns creamy without hard bits at the center.
Tip the soaked trahanas and its soaking liquid into a heavy pot. Add the remaining 1L stock or water, the whole onion, bay leaf, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Bring it to a gentle boil, then lower the heat until it murmurs.
Cook for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring often with a wooden spoon, especially across the bottom. The grains should swell and soften, and the soup should thicken enough to coat the spoon. If it becomes too thick before the trahanas is tender, add hot water by the ladle.
Remove the onion and bay leaf. Drop in the halloumi cubes and simmer for 3 to 4 minutes, just until the cheese softens and salts the soup. Don't boil it hard now. Halloumi can take heat, yes, but this soup wants it tender, not rubbery.
Stir in the lemon juice, taste, and add salt only if the halloumi hasn't done enough. Ladle into warm bowls and finish with a thin thread of olive oil, black pepper, and dried mint if you use it. Serve lemon wedges beside the bowl.
1 serving (about 445g)
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