
Chef Dimitra
Aegean Island Kakavia (Κακαβιά)
Aegean kakavia is the fisherman’s soup named for the pot itself: small rockfish, potato, onion, lemon, and enough olive oil to turn a poor catch rich.
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Cycladic psarosoupa is the island family pot: whole white fish poached with potatoes and celery, then finished with lemony avgolemono and served with the fish alongside.
Cycladic psarosoupa is fish soup from the island table, a whole firm fish poached over potatoes, carrots, celery, and onion, then finished with avgolemono, the egg-lemon thickening that turns a clear broth pale and silky. The fish stays whole because the bones give the pot its strength, and because the table should see what fed it.
The method that decides the dish is the avgolemono. You warm the eggs with hot broth a ladle at a time, whisking as you go, so they thicken the soup instead of curdling. After that, no boiling. Be firm there and the rest is gentle cooking.
Use the fish that is good today. Sea bream, sea bass, dentex, grouper, or another firm white fish will do. Λίγα και καλά, a few things, and good ones. My own notes for psarosoupa always have the same warning in the margin: buy the fish before you decide the soup.
Psarosoupa belongs to the household kitchens of the Aegean islands, separate from kakavia, the older fishermen's boat soup named from the ancient cooking pot, the kakkabe. Island cooks stretched one good fish by serving the broth first and the flesh beside it, with potatoes and celery making the meal complete. Avgolemono entered many Greek soups as a practical thickener before cream was common in the Greek kitchen, especially in family dishes meant to nourish the sick, the old, and children.
Quantity
1.2kg
scaled and gutted, kept whole
Quantity
1.8L
Quantity
500g
peeled and cut into large chunks
Quantity
250g
cut into thick rounds
Quantity
160g
cut into large pieces
Quantity
150g
peeled and halved
Quantity
80ml
Quantity
2
Quantity
10g
plus more to taste
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
2
Quantity
80ml
Quantity
20g
chopped
Quantity
as needed
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole firm white fishscaled and gutted, kept whole | 1.2kg |
| water | 1.8L |
| waxy potatoespeeled and cut into large chunks | 500g |
| carrotscut into thick rounds | 250g |
| celery stalks with leavescut into large pieces | 160g |
| yellow onionpeeled and halved | 150g |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oil | 80ml |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| fine sea saltplus more to taste | 10g |
| black peppercorns | 1/2 teaspoon |
| large eggs | 2 |
| fresh lemon juice | 80ml |
| flat-leaf parsleychopped | 20g |
| lemon wedges (optional) | as needed |
Rinse the fish inside and out, then pat it dry. If it is too long for your pot, ask the fishmonger to cut it once across the middle, keeping the head and bones. They are not decoration here. They give the broth its body.
Put the water, potatoes, carrots, celery, onion, olive oil, bay leaves, salt, and peppercorns into a wide pot. Bring to a boil, then lower to a steady simmer and cook for 18 to 20 minutes, until the potatoes are almost tender but still hold their edges.
Lay the fish gently over the vegetables. The liquid should just come around it, not roll over it like a storm. Cover and simmer quietly for 12 to 16 minutes, depending on thickness, until the flesh pulls from the backbone in clean flakes.
Lift the fish onto a platter with two wide spatulas. Remove the onion, bay leaves, and peppercorns. Keep the potatoes, carrots, and celery in the pot, or lift some to the fish platter if your family serves the fish and vegetables together.
Whisk the eggs and lemon juice in a bowl until pale and loose. Add two ladles of hot broth in a thin stream, whisking all the time, then whisk in two more ladles. Warm the eggs slowly and the avgolemono thickens like silk. Pour eggs straight into the pot and they scramble. That's the whole trick.
Take the pot off the heat. Stir the warmed avgolemono back into the soup, moving the ladle gently through the broth. Do not boil it again. Taste for salt and lemon. The broth should be bright, round, and lightly thickened, not heavy.
Serve the soup in bowls with potato, carrot, celery, and a little parsley. Bring the whole fish to the table on its platter, with lemon wedges and a thread of olive oil. Each person takes fish beside the soup. This is the family way, generous and plain.
1 serving (about 455g)
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