
Chef Lupita
Agua de Alfalfa
Ciudad de México's highland market agua fresca, fresh alfalfa blended with pineapple and lime until bright green, strained clean, and poured cold from the vitrolero.
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Hidalgo's guava curado starts with fresh pulque from the Altiplano, ripe yellow guavas, piloncillo, and a pinch of cinnamon. It is a living drink, not a bottled cocktail.
Hidalgo, especially the Altiplano around Apan and the old pulque towns, is where this curado belongs. The maguey fields there sit in dry air and hard light, and the pulque has a sour, living body that can carry fruit without turning childish. This is not a blender cocktail. This is pulque cured with guayaba, the fruit folded into the drink so the maguey still tastes like maguey.
The guava matters. It should be yellow, ripe, fragrant, almost floral when you cut it open. If the guavas at the market smell like nothing, don't make curado de guayaba today. Make curado de avena or piñón, or drink the pulque blanco as it is. Mexican grandmothers cook with what the mercado is selling today, not what a recipe demands from bad fruit.
I learned this version from a señora outside a pulquería near Apan who used piloncillo, not white sugar, and only a pinch of canela. She cooked the guava just enough to loosen the pulp, strained the seeds with the patience of someone who has broken a tooth before, then stirred the fruit into cold pulque by hand. No me vengas con atajos. The seeds come out. The pulque stays cold. The drink is made and served the same day.
Cada estado, su propia cocina. Hidalgo's curado is generous, sour-sweet, and alive. Saber cocinar es saber vivir, and sometimes saber beber también.
Pulque was consumed in central Mexico long before the Spanish conquest, especially among Nahua, Otomí, and other peoples of the maguey-growing highlands, where fermented aguamiel carried ritual and medicinal importance. Hidalgo became one of the great pulque-producing states in the 19th century, when the pulque haciendas of the Llanos de Apan supplied Mexico City by rail. Fruit curados developed as pulquerías expanded their offerings, but the base remained the same: fresh pulque from maguey, alive and perishable, meant to be consumed quickly.
Quantity
6 cups
cold and active
Quantity
1 pound
washed, stem ends trimmed, and quartered
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
3 ounces
grated or chopped
Quantity
1 small
Quantity
1 pinch
Quantity
1 tablespoon
only if the guavas are very sweet
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fresh pulque blancocold and active | 6 cups |
| ripe yellow guavaswashed, stem ends trimmed, and quartered | 1 pound |
| water | 1/2 cup |
| piloncillograted or chopped | 3 ounces |
| Mexican cinnamon stick | 1 small |
| fine sea salt | 1 pinch |
| fresh lime juice (optional)only if the guavas are very sweet | 1 tablespoon |
Taste the pulque before you touch the guavas. It should be lightly sour, faintly sweet, thick enough to coat the glass, and alive on the tongue. If it smells rotten or harsh, do not use it. Curado does not rescue bad pulque. Si no conoces el mercado, no conoces la cocina.
Put the quartered guavas, water, piloncillo, cinnamon stick, and salt in a small saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat for 6 to 8 minutes, just until the guava flesh softens and the piloncillo dissolves. Do not boil it hard. You are loosening the fruit and waking up the cinnamon, not making jam.
Remove the cinnamon stick and let the guava mixture cool to room temperature. Then chill it until cold. This matters. Hot fruit will damage the pulque and flatten its life. Pulque is fermented maguey sap, not syrup from a bottle. Treat it with respect.
Blend the cold guava mixture with 1 cup of the pulque until smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing firmly with a spoon to push through the pulp and leave the hard seeds behind. Guava seeds have no mercy on your teeth. The texture should be creamy, not gritty.
Pour the strained guava base into a clay pitcher or glass jar. Add the remaining 5 cups cold pulque and stir gently with a wooden spoon. Taste. If the guavas were very sweet and the drink needs a sharper edge, add the lime juice. If the pulque is already tangy, leave it alone. The maguey should still speak.
Serve cold in clay jarritos or thick pulqueria glasses. Give each glass a small pinch of ground cinnamon if your family serves it that way. Drink it the day it is made, preferably within 4 hours. Curado keeps fermenting, and by tomorrow the balance is gone. Así se hace y punto.
1 serving (about 330g)
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