
Chef Isabel
Berenjenas Fritas con Miel de Caña
Berenjenas fritas con miel de caña are Andalusian: thin aubergine slices fried crisp and finished with dark cane syrup, where the trick is dry aubergine, hot oil, and no crowding.
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Madrid's chicken croquetas turn cocido leftovers into oval, crisp shells with a creamy bechamel centre. Cook the masa until it pulls cleanly from the pan, then chill it hard.
Croquetas de pollo madrileñas belong to Madrid when they come from cocido: the leftover stewed chicken, chopped fine, bound in a thick bechamel, chilled, breaded, and fried. Croquetas live in homes across the peninsula, yes, but this version has Madrid for a surname because the chicken comes from that big chickpea pot and carries its broth with it.
The masa decides everything. Cook the onion low until it turns soft and sweet, cook the flour until it loses its raw taste, then add warm milk and broth slowly until the mixture turns glossy and heavy. It must pull cleanly from the pan. After that, chill it hard. There is no brave way around the chill; warm masa bursts in the oil and makes a mess of your good work.
If you're far from Madrid, no hace falta haber pisado España. Use leftover roast chicken or poached chicken thighs, and replace the cocido broth with a good chicken broth. Breast alone works, but it is quieter, so chop it fine and give it whole milk. My Margin has the same note every time for croquetas: masa fría, aceite caliente. Cold filling, hot oil. That's the whole trick.
Croquetas entered the Spanish table through the French bechamel route, then Spanish homes made them a practical answer to leftovers: meat too small for another meal was chopped fine, bound in masa, and fried. In Madrid, the chicken version has a clear household source in cocido madrileño, the chickpea stew served in courses, where the cooked chicken often returns the next day as croquetas. A good croqueta is judged by its bechamel first, creamy enough to soften when bitten and firm enough to survive the oil.
Quantity
250g
finely shredded
Quantity
90g
Quantity
30ml
Quantity
120g
very finely minced
Quantity
100g
for the masa
Quantity
750ml
warmed
Quantity
150ml
warmed
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
8g, plus more to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
120g
for breading
Quantity
2
beaten
Quantity
180g
Quantity
1 litre
for frying
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| cooked chicken from cocido madrileñofinely shredded | 250g |
| unsalted butter | 90g |
| olive oil | 30ml |
| onionvery finely minced | 120g |
| plain flourfor the masa | 100g |
| whole milkwarmed | 750ml |
| chicken or cocido brothwarmed | 150ml |
| freshly grated nutmeg | 1/4 teaspoon |
| fine salt | 8g, plus more to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| plain flourfor breading | 120g |
| large eggsbeaten | 2 |
| fine dry breadcrumbs | 180g |
| mild olive oilfor frying | 1 litre |
Shred the cooked chicken very finely, then chop it once or twice with a knife so no long strands tear the croquetas later. Warm the milk and broth in a small pan or jug. Keep them warm, not boiling. Cold liquid makes lumps, and lumps have no business in a croqueta.
Melt the butter with the olive oil in a heavy saucepan over low heat. Add the onion and a pinch of the salt, then cook gently for 10 to 12 minutes until soft, sweet, and pale gold. This is the little sofrito, the slow onion base, but not a dark stew base. For croquetas it should disappear into the masa, not announce itself.
Add the 100g flour and stir with a wooden spoon or spatula for 3 minutes. It will look thick and sandy at first, then smell warm and biscuit-like. Cook it properly now, or the finished croquetas taste of raw flour no matter how good the chicken was.
Add the warm milk and broth a ladle at a time, stirring hard after each addition until smooth before adding the next. When all the liquid is in, cook over medium-low heat for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring constantly, until the masa is glossy, thick, and leaves a clean path when you drag the spoon across the bottom of the pan. This is the step that decides the dish.
Stir in the shredded chicken, nutmeg, black pepper, and the rest of the salt. Cook 3 minutes more, folding the masa over itself until it pulls heavily from the sides of the pan. Taste it now. It should be a little more seasoned than seems polite, because the breading and frying will soften it.
Scrape the masa into a shallow dish, smooth the top, and press baking paper or plastic wrap directly onto the surface. Chill at least 4 hours, and overnight is better. Do not rush this. Warm masa slumps, leaks, and bursts in the oil, and then you've made chicken sauce with crumbs.
Set out three shallow dishes: 120g flour, the beaten eggs, and the breadcrumbs. Scoop 30g portions of cold masa and shape each one into a short oval with lightly floured hands. Roll in flour, tap off the excess, dip in egg, then coat well in breadcrumbs. Set the breaded croquetas on a tray and chill 30 minutes so the coating firms.
Heat the frying oil in a deep pan to 175C. Fry the croquetas in small batches for 2 to 3 minutes, turning once, until evenly golden and crisp. Do not crowd the pan or the oil cools and the coating drinks grease. Drain on paper, wait 2 minutes so the centre settles, and serve warm. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
1 serving (about 215g)
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