Croquetas de Pollo Madrileñas

Croquetas de pollo madrileñas belong to Madrid when they come from cocido: the leftover stewed chicken, chopped fine, bound in a thick bechamel, chilled, breaded, and fried. Croquetas live in homes across the peninsula, yes, but this version has Madrid for a surname because the chicken comes from that big chickpea pot and carries its broth with it.

The masa decides everything. Cook the onion low until it turns soft and sweet, cook the flour until it loses its raw taste, then add warm milk and broth slowly until the mixture turns glossy and heavy. It must pull cleanly from the pan. After that, chill it hard. There is no brave way around the chill; warm masa bursts in the oil and makes a mess of your good work.

If you're far from Madrid, no hace falta haber pisado España. Use leftover roast chicken or poached chicken thighs, and replace the cocido broth with a good chicken broth. Breast alone works, but it is quieter, so chop it fine and give it whole milk. My Margin has the same note every time for croquetas: masa fría, aceite caliente. Cold filling, hot oil. That's the whole trick.