Croquetas Castellanas de Setas y Boletus

Croquetas de setas y boletus are Castilian in spirit, especially from the cold autumn country of Castilla y Leon, where the oak and pine woods give the dish its point. The croqueta itself is made all over Spain, yes, but this one belongs to mushroom season: boletus for depth, mixed setas for body, and a thick bechamel that holds them without turning heavy.

The method that decides it is not the frying. It is cooking the mushrooms dry first, hard enough that they give up their water and begin to smell nutty. If you fold wet mushrooms into the masa, the bechamel goes loose, the croquetas split, and then people blame the oil. The oil is innocent, for once.

If you are far from Castilla and can't find fresh boletus, use dried porcini and ordinary cultivated mushrooms. Soak the dried mushrooms, chop them small, and cook the fresh ones until the pan is dry before you add the flour. The flavor will be a little less woodland and a little more pantry, but it will still be right. Pésalo, no lo adivines. With croquetas, exact amounts are mercy.

Chill the masa until firm, shape it with calm hands, and fry in small batches. Siempre sale, si lo sigues. My Margin beside this one says only: "setas secas primero," mushrooms dry first. That is the line that saves the dish.