
Chef Thomas
A British BLT
Back bacon crisped in a hot pan, a ripe tomato that actually tastes of something, crisp lettuce and real butter on proper toast. A sandwich that earns its place in the notebook.
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Created by Chef Thomas
Mushrooms softened in butter and thyme, finished with cream and spooned generously onto thick toast. The kind of supper that asks almost nothing and gives back more than it should.
October rain against the window. The kitchen is warm and the butter is already in the pan. This is a Tuesday kind of supper, the sort that doesn't announce itself, doesn't need a reason. You have mushrooms. You have bread. You have cream and a clove of garlic and a few sprigs of thyme, and that is more than enough.
I cook this more often than almost anything else in the notebook. It appears in different handwriting depending on the year, but the notes are always the same: mushrooms, butter, toast, good. There's a moment when the mushrooms have given up their water and started to take on colour, going from pale and damp to golden and concentrated, and the kitchen smells like wet leaves and toast and something almost meaty. That's when you know you're on the right track.
The cream goes in at the end, just enough to pull everything together into something silky and rich without drowning the mushrooms. This isn't a sauce with mushrooms in it. It's mushrooms with a little sauce. The toast needs to be thick and properly done, sturdy enough to hold what's coming. A slice of good sourdough, toasted until the edges are dark and the centre still gives slightly. Spoon the mushrooms over, let the cream soak into the bread, and sit down.
We're only making dinner. But some dinners are worth writing down.
Quantity
400g
chestnut, field, a few shiitake if you like, torn or thickly sliced
Quantity
40g
Quantity
1 clove
sliced thinly
Quantity
a few sprigs
Quantity
100ml
Quantity
a squeeze
Quantity
2 thick slices
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
a small handful
roughly chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| mixed mushroomschestnut, field, a few shiitake if you like, torn or thickly sliced | 400g |
| unsalted butter | 40g |
| garlicsliced thinly | 1 clove |
| fresh thyme | a few sprigs |
| double cream | 100ml |
| lemon juice | a squeeze |
| sourdough or rustic white bread | 2 thick slices |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| black pepper | to taste |
| flat-leaf parsley (optional)roughly chopped | a small handful |
Tear or slice the mushrooms thickly. You want substantial pieces, not thin slivers. They'll shrink as they cook, and a mushroom that starts too small ends up with nothing to say. A mix of types gives you different textures: chestnut mushrooms hold their shape, field mushrooms go dark and meaty, shiitake bring something slightly woodsy. Use what looks good. The market decides.
Put a wide, heavy pan over a high heat and let it get properly hot. Add the butter. When it foams and the foam starts to subside, add the mushrooms in a single layer. Don't crowd them. If your pan isn't big enough, do this in two batches. Crowded mushrooms steam. You want them to sizzle. Leave them alone for two or three minutes, resisting the urge to stir, until the undersides have taken on a proper golden colour. Then turn them and do the same on the other side. Season with salt as they cook.
Turn the heat down to medium. Add the sliced garlic and the thyme sprigs, leaves and all. Stir them through the mushrooms and let everything cook together for a minute or so, until the garlic has softened and the thyme has started to smell like the reason you're making this. Trust your nose. It knows before you do.
Pour in the cream and let it bubble gently for a minute, just long enough to thicken slightly and coat the mushrooms. It should look glossy and rich, not thin, not thick. Add a squeeze of lemon juice, which lifts the whole thing and stops the cream from feeling heavy. Season again. Taste it. If it needs more salt, add more salt. Seasoning isn't a suggestion. It's the difference between food that's fine and food that makes someone reach for a second piece of toast.
While the cream is finishing, toast the bread. Thick slices, properly toasted, so the outside is golden and firm and the inside still has some give. Put the toast on warm plates. Spoon the mushrooms over generously, letting the cream soak into the bread where it will. Scatter the parsley over the top if you have it. Serve immediately. There are few better feelings than putting a warm plate in front of someone on a cold evening.
1 serving (about 300g)
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