
Chef Remy
Andouille and Potato Hash
Smoky andouille sausage nestled among golden, shatteringly crisp potatoes and the holy trinity of peppers and onions, the kind of generous Louisiana breakfast that keeps you going until dinner.
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Created by Chef Remy
A pillowy, golden custard of stone-ground cornmeal studded with sweet Louisiana crawfish and fresh summer corn, baked until puffed and golden, the kind of Sunday morning dish that brings the whole family to the table before you even call them.
Spoonbread is one of those dishes that separates Louisiana cooks from everybody else. Most folks think cornbread, but we know better. This is a custard. Soft enough to eat with a spoon, rich enough to make you close your eyes, and when you add crawfish and fresh corn, you have got something that belongs on the finest brunch table in New Orleans.
My grandmother Evangeline made spoonbread every Sunday after church. She would have a cast iron skillet waiting in a hot oven while we walked in the door, and by the time we changed out of our good clothes, that kitchen smelled like butter and cornmeal and home. I added crawfish to her recipe thirty years ago at Lagniappe, and it became one of our most requested brunch dishes. The sweet tail meat pairs with the corn like they were born in the same bayou, which, if you think about it, they were.
The secret is treating this like a soufflé. You build a rich cornmeal base, fold in beaten eggs gently, and let the oven do the heavy lifting. It puffs up golden and proud, then settles into something between a custard and a cloud. Season the crawfish before it goes in. Season the vegetables when they hit the pan. Taste the batter before baking. That is the bayou way: layers of flavor built one decision at a time.
Quantity
1 pound
drained
Quantity
2 teaspoons, divided
Quantity
4 tablespoons, divided
Quantity
1/2 cup
finely diced
Quantity
1/4 cup
finely diced
Quantity
1/4 cup
finely diced
Quantity
3 cloves
minced
Quantity
1 1/2 cups (about 3 ears)
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
freshly ground
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
2 cups
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
4
separated
Quantity
1 cup
shredded
Quantity
4
sliced thin, white and green parts separated
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Louisiana crawfish tail meatdrained | 1 pound |
| Cajun seasoning | 2 teaspoons, divided |
| unsalted butter | 4 tablespoons, divided |
| yellow onionfinely diced | 1/2 cup |
| celeryfinely diced | 1/4 cup |
| green bell pepperfinely diced | 1/4 cup |
| garlicminced | 3 cloves |
| fresh corn kernels | 1 1/2 cups (about 3 ears) |
| stone-ground yellow cornmeal | 1 cup |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon |
| black pepperfreshly ground | 1/2 teaspoon |
| cayenne pepper | 1/4 teaspoon |
| whole milk | 2 cups |
| heavy cream | 1 cup |
| large eggsseparated | 4 |
| sharp cheddar cheeseshredded | 1 cup |
| green onionssliced thin, white and green parts separated | 4 |
| hot sauce | 1 teaspoon, plus more for serving |
Pat the crawfish tail meat dry with paper towels. Toss with one teaspoon of the Cajun seasoning in a bowl and set aside. This is where the flavor starts. You are building in layers, and the protein gets seasoned first. Always. Let the crawfish sit while you prepare everything else so the spices have time to wake up.
Position a rack in the center of your oven and preheat to 375 degrees. Place a 10-inch cast iron skillet in the oven while it heats. A hot skillet gives you that golden, slightly crispy bottom that makes spoonbread worth fighting over. This takes about 20 minutes, so use that time wisely.
Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a separate skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, and bell pepper with a pinch of salt. Cook until soft and fragrant, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. The vegetables should look translucent and smell like a Louisiana kitchen. Add the garlic and cook 30 seconds more until you can smell it. Add the corn kernels and cook another 3 minutes until they brighten and lose their raw starch taste. Remove from heat and let cool slightly.
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, whisk together the cornmeal, remaining teaspoon of Cajun seasoning, salt, black pepper, and cayenne. Pour in the milk and cream, whisking until smooth with no lumps. Set over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the mixture thickens and pulls away from the sides of the pan, about 8 to 10 minutes. It should look like thick polenta and coat your spoon heavily. Remove from heat.
Stir the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter into the hot cornmeal until melted and incorporated. Add the cheese and stir until it disappears into the mixture. Let cool for 5 minutes. You cannot add eggs to something this hot or you will have scrambled cornmeal, and nobody wants that.
Beat the egg yolks in a small bowl. Stir a spoonful of the warm cornmeal mixture into the yolks to temper them, then add the tempered yolks back to the pot, stirring well. Fold in the sautéed vegetables, the white parts of the green onions, and the hot sauce. Taste the batter now. Adjust salt if needed. Gently fold in the seasoned crawfish, distributing evenly throughout.
In a clean bowl with a whisk or electric mixer, beat the egg whites until they hold stiff peaks. They should look glossy and stand up proud when you lift the whisk. Fold one third of the whites into the cornmeal mixture to lighten it, using a gentle hand. Then fold in the remaining whites in two additions, cutting through the center and folding over until just combined. Some streaks of white are fine. Overfolding deflates everything you just built.
Carefully remove the hot skillet from the oven using thick towels or mitts. Add a small pat of butter and swirl to coat the bottom and sides. Pour the batter into the hot skillet. It should sizzle slightly when it hits. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes until the top is golden brown, the center is puffed, and a knife inserted near the center comes out clean. The spoonbread will jiggle slightly but should not look wet.
Let the spoonbread rest in the skillet for 5 minutes. It will settle and sink slightly as it cools, which is exactly what it should do. Scatter the green onion tops over the surface. Serve directly from the skillet, scooping generous portions onto warm plates. Pass hot sauce at the table for those who want more heat. When the last bite is as good as the first, you have done it right.
1 serving (about 230g)
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