
Chef Thomas
Anglesey Eggs
Eggs bedded into leek-flecked mash under a blanket of sharp cheese sauce, baked until golden and bubbling. A Welsh supper dish that proves the simplest things are usually the best.
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Created by Chef Thomas
Tinned corned beef and potatoes, pressed and fried until golden and crisp in a heavy pan, with a fried egg on top whose yolk runs into everything when you break it. Store-cupboard cooking at its most honest.
The kitchen is cold when you come in. Coat still on, bags on the floor, the heating only just clicking on. There's a tin of corned beef in the cupboard. There are always potatoes. An onion. A couple of eggs. This is that kind of evening.
Corned beef hash isn't a recipe you plan. It's a recipe you fall back on, the meal that waits patiently in the store cupboard for the day you haven't been to the market, haven't got a plan, and need something hot on a plate in under an hour. It got Britain through rationing for a reason. Not because it was glamorous, but because it was good, and filling, and it made a tin of beef and a few potatoes feel like a proper supper.
The secret, if there is one, is the crust. You press the hash flat in the pan and then you leave it. No stirring. No checking. You let the bottom go golden and crisp, then turn it and do the same again. The contrast between the crunchy, caramelised edges and the soft, savoury middle is the whole thing. That, and the fried egg on top with its yolk still trembling. When you cut into it and the yolk runs down through the hash, soaking into the crispy bits, that's the moment. I wrote it down in the notebook years ago: corned beef hash, Tuesday, rain, perfect.
We're only making dinner. But sometimes dinner is exactly enough.
Quantity
1 x 340g tin
chilled and roughly broken into chunks
Quantity
500g
peeled and cut into rough 2cm cubes
Quantity
1 large
peeled and diced
Quantity
30g
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
a few shakes
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
2
Quantity
a knob
Quantity
a small handful
roughly chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| tinned corned beefchilled and roughly broken into chunks | 1 x 340g tin |
| floury potatoespeeled and cut into rough 2cm cubes | 500g |
| onionpeeled and diced | 1 large |
| unsalted butter | 30g |
| vegetable oil or dripping | 1 tablespoon |
| Worcestershire sauce | a few shakes |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| black pepper | to taste |
| eggs | 2 |
| butter for eggs | a knob |
| flat-leaf parsley (optional)roughly chopped | a small handful |
Put the potato cubes in a pan of well-salted cold water. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for eight to ten minutes until they're tender but not falling apart. You want them to hold their shape in the pan later. Drain them well and let them sit in the colander for a few minutes. Steam rising off them is a good sign. Dry potatoes crisp. Wet potatoes don't.
Melt the butter with the oil in a large, heavy frying pan over a medium heat. When the butter foams, add the diced onion and a pinch of salt. Cook for eight to ten minutes, stirring now and then, until the onion is soft and starting to turn golden at the edges. Don't rush this. Sweet, yielding onions are the backbone of the whole dish. If they're still sharp, everything built on top will be, too.
Open the tin and break the corned beef into rough chunks with a fork. Don't mince it. You want some pieces the size of a walnut and some that have crumbled to nothing. Add the drained potatoes to the onions and toss them through the butter. Let them fry for a couple of minutes until they start to colour and catch on the edges. Now add the corned beef, a few good shakes of Worcestershire sauce, and some black pepper. Fold everything together gently. The corned beef will break up a bit more, and that's fine. Some pieces crisp, some melt into the potato. Both are good.
Here's the important bit. Press the hash down firmly with a spatula so it covers the base of the pan in an even layer. Then leave it alone. Don't stir it. Don't fidget with it. Let the underside develop a proper golden crust, which will take four or five minutes. You'll hear it: a steady, gentle sizzle that sounds like it's doing its job. When the bottom is crisp, break it up in sections, turn the pieces over, and press down again. Repeat once or twice more until you've got a good mix of crispy edges and softer middle. The whole thing should smell savoury and slightly caramelised and deeply like something you want to eat.
While the hash is on its last crisping, melt a knob of butter in a small frying pan over a medium heat. Crack the eggs in. Cook them gently until the whites are set and the yolks are still soft and glossy. If you like, tilt the pan and spoon some of the hot butter over the tops of the whites to set them through without flipping. The yolk needs to run when you cut into it. That's not optional.
Divide the hash between two warmed plates, making sure everyone gets their share of the crispy bits. Slide an egg on top of each. Scatter some parsley over if you have it. Season the egg with a pinch of salt and a grind of pepper. Put the plate down in front of someone. That's it. That's the whole point.
1 serving (about 450g)
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