
Chef Thomas
All-Butter Shortbread Fingers
The plainest biscuit in the tin and the hardest one to stop eating, three ingredients and a slow oven turning good butter into something quietly perfect with a cup of tea.
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Created by Chef Thomas
Crisp-edged, chewy-centred mounds of coconut on a thin disc of edible rice paper, the sort of biscuit that lives in a tin on the counter and disappears faster than you'd think.
There was a baker's window in the town where I grew up that always had a tray of these in the front, lined up in their paper cases, gold-tipped and a little uneven. I'd stand on tiptoe to see them. I didn't know then that they were one of the easier things in the whole shop. Three ingredients and a sheet of rice paper. No skill required beyond the willingness to make a small mess.
They are a quietly splendid thing to have around. Crisp on top where the oven has caught the coconut, soft and chewy in the middle where the egg white holds it all together, and underneath a thin, papery disc that dissolves on your tongue. The rice paper isn't a gimmick. It's the whole point. Without it you have a biscuit that sticks to the tray and falls apart. With it you have a small, complete object that can travel in a tin to a friend's house, a school fete, a Tuesday afternoon when someone needs a bit of sugar.
I make a batch when there are spare egg whites in the fridge from something else. A custard, a pasta, a meringue I never got round to. They take fifteen minutes to put together and twenty in the oven. By the time the kettle has boiled twice, you have biscuits. We're only making dinner, and then pudding, and then something for the tin.
A recipe is a conversation, not a contract. If you want to dip the bases in dark chocolate once they're cool, do. If you want to press half a glace cherry into each one before baking, the way the baker in my town used to, do that. Your kitchen, your rules.
Quantity
200g
Quantity
150g
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
1 sheet
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| desiccated coconut | 200g |
| golden caster sugar | 150g |
| large egg whites | 2 |
| vanilla extract | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | pinch |
| edible rice paper (wafer paper) | 1 sheet |
Set the oven to 160C/140C fan. Line a baking tray with the rice paper, smooth side up. It will look strange, like a sheet of dried tracing paper. Trust it. That paper is going to become part of the biscuit, the thin, fragile underside that makes these what they are.
Put the egg whites and salt in a clean bowl and whisk until they hold soft peaks. Not stiff, not glossy meringue. Soft. The whites should flop gently when you lift the whisk, holding their shape but only just. This is a binder, not a meringue.
Tip in the sugar, the coconut, and the vanilla. Fold everything together with a spatula until you have a sticky, uniform mixture. It will look dry at first and then come together as the sugar starts to dissolve into the egg white. Give it a minute. The mixture should hold its shape when you scoop it but still feel soft and pliable.
Use a tablespoon, or your hands if you don't mind sticky fingers, to shape generous walnut-sized mounds onto the rice paper. Space them an inch or so apart. Press each one gently so it sits firm rather than slumping. You should get about sixteen. Don't try to make them perfect. A bakery macaroon has its own rough, peaked character, and yours should too.
Bake for eighteen to twenty-two minutes. You're looking for the tips and edges to turn a proper toasted gold while the bases stay pale. The kitchen will smell of warm coconut and caramelising sugar, somewhere between a bakery and a holiday. Trust your nose. Pull them when they look set on the outside but still feel soft if you press one gently. They'll firm as they cool.
Let the tray cool completely on a wire rack. Once cold, tear or snip around each macaroon, leaving the rice paper attached to the base. The paper that isn't covered just falls away. What's left underneath each biscuit is a thin, edible wafer, slightly chewy where it has met the coconut. That's the bit people remember.
1 serving (about 23g)
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