Classic Southern Hush Puppies

No fish fry in the South is complete without a basket of hush puppies. The name supposedly came from cooks tossing scraps of fried batter to quiet barking dogs at camp cookouts. Whether that story holds water or not, the tradition is real. These little cornmeal fritters have been sizzling alongside catfish and barbecue for generations.

The beauty of a proper hush puppy lives in the contrast. The exterior should crackle when you bite through, giving way to a tender, almost creamy center flecked with sweet onion. Too much flour and you've made a heavy dough ball. Too little and they fall apart in the oil. The ratio matters.

I learned to make these at a fish camp on the Santee River in South Carolina, watching a cook who measured nothing and turned out perfect fritters every time. She worked by feel, by the sound of the oil, by the color of the crust. That instinct comes with practice. This recipe will get you there.