
Chef Ally
Black-Eyed Peas with Greens
Field peas simmered slowly with a smoky ham hock, joined by ribbons of collard greens that melt into the pot liquor, a bowl of Southern tradition that nourishes body and spirit alike.
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Golden, craggy cornmeal fritters with tender onion-flecked centers, fried until they shatter at first bite. The only proper sidekick for a fish fry, a barbecue spread, or a basket of fried catfish.
No fish fry in the South is complete without a basket of hush puppies. The name supposedly came from cooks tossing scraps of fried batter to quiet barking dogs at camp cookouts. Whether that story holds water or not, the tradition is real. These little cornmeal fritters have been sizzling alongside catfish and barbecue for generations.
The beauty of a proper hush puppy lives in the contrast. The exterior should crackle when you bite through, giving way to a tender, almost creamy center flecked with sweet onion. Too much flour and you've made a heavy dough ball. Too little and they fall apart in the oil. The ratio matters.
I learned to make these at a fish camp on the Santee River in South Carolina, watching a cook who measured nothing and turned out perfect fritters every time. She worked by feel, by the sound of the oil, by the color of the crust. That instinct comes with practice. This recipe will get you there.
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
preferably stone-ground
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
freshly ground
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 cup
well-shaken
Quantity
1
lightly beaten
Quantity
1/2 cup
finely minced
Quantity
2 tablespoons
thinly sliced
Quantity
about 3 cups
for frying
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| yellow cornmealpreferably stone-ground | 1 1/2 cups |
| all-purpose flour | 1/2 cup |
| granulated sugar | 1 tablespoon |
| baking powder | 1 1/2 teaspoons |
| baking soda | 1/2 teaspoon |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon |
| black pepperfreshly ground | 1/2 teaspoon |
| cayenne pepper | 1/4 teaspoon |
| buttermilkwell-shaken | 1 cup |
| large egglightly beaten | 1 |
| yellow onionfinely minced | 1/2 cup |
| scallionsthinly sliced | 2 tablespoons |
| peanut or vegetable oilfor frying | about 3 cups |
Whisk together the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, black pepper, and cayenne in a large mixing bowl. The stone-ground cornmeal gives you texture and honest corn flavor that degerminated supermarket versions simply cannot provide. If stone-ground is what you have, use it. The slightly coarser grind makes for better hush puppies.
In a smaller bowl, combine the buttermilk and beaten egg. Stir in the minced onion and scallions. The onion should be minced fine enough that no piece exceeds a quarter inch. Larger chunks will stay raw in the center while the exterior overcooks.
Pour the wet mixture into the dry ingredients and stir with a fork or wooden spoon until just combined. The batter should be thick enough to hold a rough shape on a spoon but not so stiff that it forms a ball. If it seems too thick, add buttermilk a tablespoon at a time. Let the batter rest for ten minutes while you heat the oil. This rest allows the cornmeal to hydrate and the leavening to activate.
Pour oil into a deep cast iron skillet or Dutch oven to a depth of two inches. Clip a deep-fry thermometer to the side and heat over medium-high until the oil reaches 350°F. Maintaining this temperature is the whole trick to frying. Too cool and the hush puppies absorb oil and turn greasy. Too hot and the exterior burns before the center cooks through.
Working in batches of five or six, drop rounded tablespoons of batter into the hot oil. Use two spoons to shape them: scoop with one, push off with the other. They should hit the oil with a satisfying sizzle and immediately begin to bubble. Fry for two and a half to three minutes, turning once halfway through, until deep golden brown on all sides. The hush puppies will float when ready.
Transfer fried hush puppies to a wire rack set over a sheet pan lined with paper towels. The rack allows air to circulate so the bottoms stay crisp instead of steaming and turning soggy. Season with a light sprinkle of salt immediately while the oil glistens. Keep finished batches warm in a 200°F oven while you fry the rest.
Between batches, let the oil return to 350°F before adding more batter. This takes a minute or two. Rushing this step produces pale, greasy hush puppies that will disappoint everyone at the table. Patience here is the price of admission.
Pile the hush puppies in a napkin-lined basket or on a warm platter. Serve alongside fried fish, barbecue, coleslaw, or tartar sauce for dipping. These are at their absolute best within ten minutes of frying, when the crust still crackles and the inside steams when you bite through. A good hush puppy waits for no one.
1 hush puppy (about 38g)
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Chef Ally
Field peas simmered slowly with a smoky ham hock, joined by ribbons of collard greens that melt into the pot liquor, a bowl of Southern tradition that nourishes body and spirit alike.

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