
Chef Dean
Apple Cinnamon Pancakes
Tender buttermilk pancakes folded with butter-glazed apple pieces and warm cinnamon, stacked high and drowning in maple syrup. This is Sunday morning the way it ought to be.
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Crispy, deeply golden cubes of corned beef and potato fried in a well-seasoned skillet until a shattering crust forms, crowned with eggs whose runny yolks become the only sauce this honest dish requires.
Hash is older than our nation. The word comes from the French hacher, to chop, and the technique traveled to American shores with early colonists who understood that yesterday's roast becomes today's breakfast. Corned beef hash emerged from thrift and became beloved for its own merits. Diners adopted it. Grandmothers perfected it. Now I'm giving it to you.
The secret lives in the crust. You need patience and a heavy hand with the fat. Most home cooks flip too often, anxious to see what's happening underneath. Don't. Press the hash into your skillet, let it sit undisturbed, and wait for that satisfying crackle when you finally lift a corner with your spatula. Golden brown, nearly mahogany in spots, with crispy edges that shatter against the soft, meaty interior.
I've eaten hash in diners from Portland, Maine to Portland, Oregon. The best versions share two qualities: crispy texture and generous proportion of beef to potato. Too much potato and you've made home fries with meat. Too little and there's nothing to bind the dish together. The ratio I'm giving you tips toward abundance. This is weekend breakfast food, meant to fortify you for whatever the day demands.
Serve this with eggs cooked any way you like, though I prefer sunny-side up. When the yolk breaks and pools into the crevices of the hash, you've found something close to breakfast perfection.
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
cut into 1/2-inch cubes
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
cut into 1/2-inch cubes
Quantity
1 large
diced
Quantity
4 tablespoons
divided
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
freshly cracked
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
4
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| cooked corned beefcut into 1/2-inch cubes | 1 1/2 pounds |
| Yukon Gold potatoescut into 1/2-inch cubes | 1 1/2 pounds |
| yellow oniondiced | 1 large |
| unsalted butterdivided | 4 tablespoons |
| bacon fat or vegetable oil | 2 tablespoons |
| fresh thyme leaves | 1 teaspoon |
| black pepperfreshly cracked | 1/2 teaspoon |
| kosher salt | 1/4 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| Worcestershire sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| large eggs | 4 |
| fresh flat-leaf parsleychopped | 2 tablespoons |
| hot sauce (optional) | for serving |
Place the cubed potatoes in a large pot and cover with cold, salted water by two inches. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a steady simmer. Cook until the potatoes are just tender when pierced with a knife, about eight to ten minutes. They should hold their shape without crumbling. Drain thoroughly and spread on a sheet pan to cool and dry. Moisture is the enemy of crispness.
Cut your corned beef into half-inch cubes, keeping them roughly uniform for even cooking. Include the fatty cap if you have it. That fat renders during frying and adds flavor that lean meat alone cannot provide. You should have about four cups of cubed beef.
Heat a twelve-inch cast iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add two tablespoons of butter and the bacon fat, swirling until the butter foams and subsides. Add the diced onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and beginning to turn golden at the edges, about five minutes. The kitchen will smell like Sunday morning.
Add the cubed corned beef and par-cooked potatoes to the skillet. Scatter the thyme leaves over top and season with pepper. Go easy on the salt. Corned beef carries plenty from its cure. Toss everything together until well distributed.
Using a sturdy spatula, press the hash mixture firmly into an even layer. Drizzle the Worcestershire sauce over top. Now comes the hard part: leave it alone. Let the hash cook undisturbed for five to six minutes until you hear steady crackling and see golden brown crust forming along the edges where the hash meets the pan.
Slide your spatula under sections of the hash and flip them over, exposing the golden crust. Add the remaining two tablespoons of butter in pieces around the pan. Press the hash down again into a flat layer. Cook another five to six minutes undisturbed until this side develops its own crispy crust. Repeat the flip and press process one more time for maximum crunch.
Using the back of a spoon, make four evenly spaced wells in the hash, pressing down to create shallow depressions that reach nearly to the pan. Crack an egg into each well. Season the eggs lightly with salt and pepper. Cover the skillet with a lid or sheet of foil.
Cook covered over medium heat until the egg whites are set but the yolks remain gloriously runny, about four to five minutes. Remove from heat, scatter the chopped parsley over everything, and bring the skillet directly to the table. Serve with hot sauce alongside and plenty of buttered toast for soaking up the yolks.
1 serving (about 390g)
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