Classic Champagne Cocktail

This cocktail predates the Civil War. It appeared in the first bartender's guide ever published in America, Jerry Thomas's 1862 compendium, and it hasn't needed improvement since. That should tell you something. When a recipe survives 160 years without modification, you're dealing with perfection.

The genius lies in the sugar cube. Saturated with Angostura bitters and dropped into the flute, it becomes a tiny engine of effervescence. As the sugar slowly dissolves, it releases a constant stream of fine bubbles that carry the bitter aromatics upward through the wine. Each sip changes slightly as the balance shifts from dry to sweet over the course of the glass. It's a cocktail that evolves while you drink it.

I've served these at midnight for more New Year's celebrations than I care to count. They never fail to impress, yet they require almost no effort. The prep can be done hours ahead. The assembly takes thirty seconds per glass. For a host juggling appetizers and conversation, this is the cocktail that lets you participate in your own party.

Choose an honest sparkling wine. True Champagne if you're feeling flush, a quality Crémant or California brut if you're sensible. What matters is that it's dry, cold, and has good mousse. Save the sweet stuff for another occasion.