
Chef Dean
Antipasto Skewers
The abundance of an Italian antipasto platter captured on a single pick: folded salami, sharp provolone, briny olives, and tender artichoke hearts, finished with fresh basil and a bright olive oil drizzle.
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Shatteringly crisp wings lacquered in cayenne-butter sauce so addictive you'll forget the game is on, served with a chunky blue cheese dressing that earns its place at the table.
Teressa Bellissimo invented these wings at the Anchor Bar in Buffalo, New York in 1964. The story goes that her son and his friends arrived hungry after midnight, and she improvised with the only meat she had: chicken wings, then considered throwaway parts fit only for stock. She fried them, tossed them in hot sauce and butter, and served them with celery from the antipasto and blue cheese dressing from the house salad. Sixty years later, we're still chasing that moment.
The technique is honest and unforgiving. Your wings must be dry before they hit the oil. Moisture creates steam, and steam prevents the skin from crisping. Pat them aggressively with paper towels, then let them sit uncovered in the refrigerator for at least an hour, preferably overnight. This step separates the wings you'll be proud of from the soggy disappointments you've encountered at lesser establishments.
The sauce formula is sacred: Frank's RedHot and butter in equal measure, whisked until emulsified. Some recipes call for cayenne or garlic powder. I call for restraint. The original achieved perfection through simplicity. Your job is to execute the fundamentals, not to improve upon genius.
Quantity
3 pounds
split into flats and drumettes
Quantity
about 2 quarts
for frying
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
freshly ground
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1/2 cup (1 stick)
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
4 ounces (about 1 cup)
crumbled
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 small clove
minced to a paste
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
6
cut into sticks
Quantity
4 medium
peeled and cut into sticks
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| chicken wingssplit into flats and drumettes | 3 pounds |
| vegetable or peanut oilfor frying | about 2 quarts |
| kosher salt (for wings) | 1 teaspoon |
| black pepper (for wings)freshly ground | 1/2 teaspoon |
| Frank's RedHot Original | 1/2 cup |
| unsalted butter | 1/2 cup (1 stick) |
| Worcestershire sauce | 1/2 teaspoon |
| quality blue cheesecrumbled | 4 ounces (about 1 cup) |
| mayonnaise | 1/2 cup |
| sour cream | 1/4 cup |
| buttermilk | 3 tablespoons |
| white wine vinegar | 1 tablespoon |
| garlicminced to a paste | 1 small clove |
| kosher salt (for dressing) | 1/4 teaspoon |
| black pepper (for dressing)freshly ground | to taste |
| celery stalkscut into sticks | 6 |
| carrotspeeled and cut into sticks | 4 medium |
Pat the wing pieces aggressively dry with paper towels, pressing firmly to draw out surface moisture. Spread them in a single layer on a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet. Refrigerate uncovered for at least one hour, preferably overnight. The circulating cold air desiccates the skin, which is precisely what you want.
In a medium bowl, combine the mayonnaise, sour cream, buttermilk, vinegar, garlic paste, salt, and several grinds of black pepper. Whisk until smooth. Fold in the crumbled blue cheese, leaving chunks intact. You want pockets of intense cheese throughout, not a homogeneous paste. Taste and adjust salt. Cover and refrigerate until needed.
Cut the butter into tablespoon-sized pieces and place in a small saucepan with the hot sauce and Worcestershire. Set over medium-low heat, swirling occasionally, until the butter melts completely and the mixture looks unified and glossy. Keep warm over the lowest possible heat. The sauce will break if it boils.
Pour oil into a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot to a depth of three inches. Attach a deep-fry thermometer to the side. Heat over medium-high until the oil reaches 375°F. This takes longer than you expect, about fifteen minutes. The patience here pays dividends.
Remove the wings from the refrigerator. Season all pieces evenly with the salt and pepper. The skin should feel papery and tight to the touch. If any moisture has accumulated, pat dry once more.
Carefully lower eight to ten wing pieces into the hot oil using a spider strainer or slotted spoon. The oil will bubble vigorously. Maintain temperature between 350°F and 375°F by adjusting heat as needed. Fry for ten to twelve minutes, turning occasionally with tongs, until the wings are deep golden brown and the skin appears tight and blistered. The meat near the bone should register 165°F.
Transfer fried wings to a clean wire rack set over a baking sheet. Let them drain for one minute while you bring the oil back to temperature. Repeat with remaining batches. Keep finished wings warm in a 200°F oven if needed, though they're best served immediately after saucing.
Working in batches, place hot wings in a large bowl. Ladle warm Buffalo sauce over them, about three tablespoons per batch. Toss vigorously until every wing glistens with an even coating. The sauce should cling to the ridges and crevices of the crispy skin. Transfer to a serving platter immediately.
Arrange the sauced wings on a platter. Serve the blue cheese dressing in a bowl alongside, with celery and carrot sticks fanned beside it. Provide plenty of napkins. These wings demand participation. There is no dignified way to eat them, nor should there be.
1 serving (about 280g)
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