
Chef Thomas
Apple Charlotte
Buttered bread baked to a deep mahogany around a filling of spiced Bramley apples, turned out at the table in a small moment of drama, cold cream poured from a jug alongside.
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Created by Chef Thomas
A proper apple crumble of sharp Bramleys and a rubbled, buttery top, baked until the fruit bubbles purple at the edges and the kitchen smells like the reason you came home.
There's a particular evening in October when the light goes early and the cold starts to mean something, and the right answer to it is an apple crumble. Not a clever pudding. Not a showpiece. A dish of sharp apples under a rubbled, buttery top, put in the oven while you get on with the rest of dinner, and pulled out bubbling when you're ready for it.
Bramleys are the apple. I won't be talked out of it. They're grown to collapse into that soft, tart, almost savoury mush that good crumble needs, and eating apples simply don't. A Bramley weeps its juice into the sugar and the flour and turns into something that tastes like autumn itself, with a sharpness that the sweet, crunchy topping needs to push against. The two halves of the dish are having a conversation, and if the apples are too polite there's nothing to talk about.
The topping is a matter of cold butter and patience. Rub it into the flour with your fingertips, lifting your hands above the bowl to keep everything cool and airy, until you've got something that looks like coarse, uneven breadcrumbs. A few larger lumps of butter are a good thing. Then demerara for proper caramelized crunch, a handful of oats for bite, a pinch of salt because everything sweet needs it. That's the whole trick.
I wrote it down in the notebook years ago: Bramleys, butter, demerara, cream. October. Rain. I've not needed to write it again since. We're only making dinner, and there are few better feelings than carrying a crumble to the table with the edges still bubbling and watching everyone reach for their spoons before the cream has even touched the bowl.
Quantity
1kg
peeled, cored and roughly chopped
Quantity
75g
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
half
zested, plus a squeeze of juice
Quantity
200g
Quantity
125g
cubed
Quantity
100g
Quantity
50g
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Bramley applespeeled, cored and roughly chopped | 1kg |
| golden caster sugar | 75g |
| plain flour (for the apples) | 1 tablespoon |
| lemonzested, plus a squeeze of juice | half |
| plain flour (for the crumble) | 200g |
| cold unsalted buttercubed | 125g |
| demerara sugar | 100g |
| rolled oats | 50g |
| fine sea salt | pinch |
| double cream or custard (optional) | to serve |
Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan. Peel the Bramleys, quarter them, cut out the cores, and chop into rough chunks the size of a walnut. Don't be too neat about it. Some pieces will collapse into a soft, tart puree, others will hold their shape, and that unevenness is the whole point. Tumble them into a buttered baking dish with the caster sugar, the tablespoon of flour, the lemon zest and a squeeze of juice. Toss with your hands until everything is coated.
Tip the plain flour and a pinch of salt into a wide bowl. Add the cold, cubed butter. Now use your fingertips, not your palms, and rub the butter into the flour with a light, flicking motion, lifting it above the bowl as you go to keep things cool and airy. Stop when the mixture looks like coarse, uneven breadcrumbs. A few larger lumps of butter are welcome. They turn into pockets of crispness in the oven.
Stir the demerara sugar and the oats through the crumb mixture. The oats aren't traditional in every house, but they give the top a bit of bite and a toasted, nutty edge once it bakes. Taste a pinch. It should be sweet but not cloying, with the faint crunch of the demerara still detectable.
Scatter the crumble over the apples in a generous, uneven layer. Don't press it down. You want it loose and craggy, with peaks and valleys for the hot fruit to bubble up through. Take it right to the edges of the dish. The bits at the rim always go darkest and most interesting.
Slide the dish onto the middle shelf of the oven and bake for thirty-five to forty minutes. You're looking for two things at once. The top should be a deep, proper gold, darker at the edges where the sugar has caught. And the apples underneath should be sending up thick, slow bubbles of purple-tinged juice around the rim. If the top is pale but the fruit is bubbling, give it another five minutes. Trust your nose. It knows before you do.
Take the crumble out and let it sit for ten minutes before you go near it. The fruit underneath is volcanic, and the juices need a moment to settle and thicken. Spoon it into bowls, making sure each serving gets both the soft fruit and the crisp top. Pour cold double cream straight from the jug so it pools and slides into the hot apples. Custard if you prefer. Both if it's that kind of evening.
1 serving (about 220g)
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