Cim i Tomba

Cim i Tomba belongs to Tossa de Mar, on the Catalan coast, and it is fishermen's spoon food: white fish, potatoes, fish broth, and allioli, the garlic and oil sauce that binds the pot at the end. It sits near a suquet de peix, yes, but this one is named by the way the pot is moved and by that final allioli. That is what makes it Tossa's dish, not just another fish stew.

The method that decides it is simple and unforgiving in a useful way. Cook the potatoes until they give, add the fish only long enough to stay juicy, then take the pot off the heat before the allioli goes in. Loosen the allioli with a ladle of hot broth first, then shake the pot by the handles. Boil it after that and it can split, and you'll have oily broth instead of a tied sauce. No drama. Just don't boil it.

If you're far from the Costa Brava, use monkfish, hake, cod, haddock, or another firm white fish that comes in thick pieces. Rock fish gives the broth more character, but a good fish stock and fresh firm fillets will still make a proper pot. No hace falta haber pisado Espana. Get the potatoes right, respect the allioli, and siempre sale, si lo sigues.