
Chef Graziella
Asparagi al Forno con Parmigiano
Roasted asparagus finished with aged Parmigiano-Reggiano from the same region that grows the best spears. Four ingredients. No complications. Nothing to hide behind.
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The vegetable stew of Southern Italy, where summer's abundance cooks slowly until eggplant, peppers, zucchini, and tomatoes become one soft, melded thing. This is the honest food of Campania and Calabria.
Every region of Southern Italy claims ciambotta. In Campania they call it ciamfotta. In Calabria and Basilicata it is cianfotta. The Pugliese have their version, the Sicilians theirs. They argue about whether it includes potatoes (it should), whether the vegetables are fried first (unnecessary), whether you add capers or olives (a corruption, in my view). But they all agree on the principle: summer vegetables, cooked slowly until soft, served at room temperature with good bread.
This is not ratatouille, though the French would like to claim kinship. Ciambotta came first, born in the kitchens of contadine who used whatever grew in the garden. It requires no precise proportions. If you have more peppers than eggplant, use more peppers. If your zucchini are enormous, use fewer. The dish adapts to what you have because that is what peasant cooking does.
What you cannot change is the method. The vegetables must cook slowly, releasing their moisture and then absorbing it back. Rush this and you have crunchy vegetables swimming in tomato juice. Give it time and the vegetables become silky, their boundaries dissolving, their flavors impossible to separate. This is what slow cooking means. Simple does not mean easy.
Ciambotta appears in Southern Italian kitchens wherever summer vegetables are abundant. The name likely derives from a Spanish word brought during centuries of Spanish rule in Naples and Sicily. By the 18th century, this vegetable stew had become essential summer fare for farmers who needed to use their harvest before it spoiled in the heat. There was no refrigeration. There was only the pot.
Quantity
1 medium (about 1 pound)
cut into 1-inch cubes
Quantity
2 medium
cut into 1-inch half-moons
Quantity
2 (1 red, 1 yellow)
seeded and cut into 1-inch pieces
Quantity
1 pound
cored and roughly chopped
Quantity
1 large
sliced thin
Quantity
2 medium (about 12 ounces)
peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
Quantity
3
sliced thin
Quantity
1/2 cup, plus more for finishing
Quantity
1/2 cup
torn
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| eggplantcut into 1-inch cubes | 1 medium (about 1 pound) |
| zucchinicut into 1-inch half-moons | 2 medium |
| bell peppersseeded and cut into 1-inch pieces | 2 (1 red, 1 yellow) |
| ripe tomatoescored and roughly chopped | 1 pound |
| yellow onionsliced thin | 1 large |
| potatoespeeled and cut into 1-inch cubes | 2 medium (about 12 ounces) |
| garlic clovessliced thin | 3 |
| extra virgin olive oil | 1/2 cup, plus more for finishing |
| fresh basil leavestorn | 1/2 cup |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
Place the eggplant cubes in a colander and toss with one teaspoon of salt. Set over a bowl or in the sink and let stand for 30 minutes. The salt draws out bitter moisture. Rinse briefly and pat very dry with kitchen towels. This step is not optional.
Warm the olive oil in a heavy 12-inch skillet or wide braiser over medium heat. Add the sliced onion and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until soft and golden at the edges, about 12 minutes. Do not brown. You are building a foundation, not caramelizing.
Add the potato cubes to the onion and stir to coat with oil. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring once or twice. The potatoes need a head start because they take longest to soften.
Add the dried eggplant cubes and the pepper pieces. Stir everything together gently. The pan will seem very full. This is correct. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the eggplant begins to soften at the edges.
Add the zucchini, the sliced garlic, and the tomatoes. The garlic goes in now, not at the beginning. Stir gently to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Reduce heat to medium-low.
Cover the pan and cook at a gentle simmer for 35 to 45 minutes. Stir every 10 minutes or so, gently, to avoid breaking the vegetables into mush. The vegetables should become very soft and meld together, their juices combining into a thick, concentrated sauce. If it looks dry, add a few tablespoons of water. If it looks watery, remove the lid for the last 10 minutes.
Remove from heat and scatter the torn basil over the top. Stir once to distribute. Taste and adjust salt. Let the ciambotta rest for at least 15 minutes before serving. It can rest longer. It is often served at room temperature, which allows the flavors to settle and deepen.
Transfer to a serving dish and drizzle generously with your best olive oil. This final drizzle is not optional. Ciambotta is a side dish, a contorno, meant to accompany grilled fish, roasted chicken, or simply good bread. It is also satisfying eaten alone, with nothing but a fork and an appetite.
1 serving (about 280g)
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