Chongo Tabasqueño

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •2-quart clay cazuela or ceramic baking dish
• •Heavy saucepan for piloncillo syrup
• •Fine-mesh strainer
• •Large whisk
• •Sheet pan for drying the panetela

Instructions

1. 1

   Dry the panetela

   Spread the panetela cubes on a sheet pan and let them sit uncovered while you prepare the syrup. If the cake is very fresh, bake it at 300F for 10 to 12 minutes, just until the outside feels dry. Do not toast it dark. You want a thirsty crumb, not croutons.

2. 2

   Make the syrup

   Combine the piloncillo, water, canela, cloves, orange peel, and salt in a saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook for 18 to 22 minutes, stirring until the piloncillo dissolves and the syrup darkens to the color of wet clay. It should coat a spoon lightly, not turn into candy. Strain out the spices and peel.

   Piloncillo carries mineral depth that white sugar does not. If you replace it with white sugar, the pudding becomes flat. A substitution is a compromise, not an upgrade.
3. 3

   Temper the eggs

   Whisk the eggs in a large bowl until smooth. Whisk in the whole milk, evaporated milk, and melted butter. Slowly pour in 1 cup of the warm piloncillo syrup while whisking constantly. This keeps the eggs from scrambling. Then whisk in the rest of the syrup. The custard should smell of canela and dark sugar.

4. 4

   Soak the bread

   Butter a 2-quart clay cazuela or baking dish. Layer in half the panetela, half the grated queso de bola de Ocosingo, and half the raisins. Repeat with the remaining panetela, cheese, and raisins. Pour the piloncillo custard evenly over the top. Press gently with your palm so every piece drinks. Let it stand 20 minutes. This waiting is not decoration. It is how the center becomes pudding instead of dry cake.

5. 5

   Bake the chongo

   Heat the oven to 350F. Scatter the pecans or cacao nibs over the top if using. Bake for 45 to 55 minutes, until the edges are caramel-dark, the top is set, and the center trembles slightly when you move the dish. A knife inserted near the center should come out moist but not liquid. If the top browns too fast, cover it loosely with foil.

6. 6

   Rest and serve

   Let the chongo rest at least 25 minutes before spooning it out. Hot from the oven it will collapse into syrup. Warm, it holds its shape and the cheese pulls softly through the crumb. Serve from the cazuela at the table. Así se hace y punto.

Chef Tips

• •Ask for panetela at a Mexican bakery, not supermarket sandwich bread. The crumb matters. Pan bolillo makes capirotada. Panetela makes chongo tabasqueño.
• •Queso de bola de Ocosingo is salty, firm, and slightly sharp. If you cannot find it, use a firm Edam-style queso de bola from a Latin market. Know what you are losing: Ocosingo has a dairy richness tied to the Chiapas highlands.
• •Do not drown the pudding with condensed milk at the end. That belongs to another dessert. Here the sweetness comes from piloncillo and the balance comes from the cheese.
• •The pudding is better warm than hot. Give it time. A good cook knows when to stop touching the dish.

Advance Preparation

• •The panetela can be cubed and dried one day ahead. Keep it uncovered or loosely covered with a clean towel.
• •The piloncillo syrup can be made two days ahead and refrigerated. Warm it gently before mixing with the eggs and milk.
• •The assembled pudding can rest in the refrigerator for up to 6 hours before baking. Add 8 to 10 minutes to the baking time if it goes into the oven cold.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 200g)