
Chef Lupita
Chiapas Cochito Adobo Paste
Chiapas' brick-red recado for cochito, built from toasted chile ancho, guajillo, achiote, vinegar, pimienta gorda, and thyme before it stains pork for the oven.
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Chiapas highland chile simojovel, smoke-dried and cured in vinegar with garlic, bay, carrot, onion, and oregano, made to sit on the table beside beans, eggs, and caldo.
Chiapas, the highland route between San Cristobal de las Casas and Simojovel, is where this jar belongs. Chile simojovel is small, red, smoke-dried, and serious. It is not pasilla. Do not let anyone sell you pasilla and call it close enough. Pregúntale a las señoras del mercado. They know the difference.
This is a table preserve, not a salsa. The vinegar carries garlic, bay leaf, Mexican oregano, carrot, and onion, then it pulls the smoke and heat from the chile over a day or two. A home cook in the highlands keeps a jar like this for beans, eggs, caldo, rice, and whatever needs discipline at the table. The chile does not shout. It stays in the vinegar and waits.
I learned this kind of curtido from women who cooked for markets before sunrise, women who understood that preserving a chile is household economy. When the fresh chile is gone, the jar remains. That is the point. Mexican cooking is not decoration, it is work. Saber cocinar es saber vivir.
Use a rough Chiapas clay bowl when you put it on the table, or a clean glass jar with a spoon beside it. No fine plating. No costume. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
Chile simojovel is tied to Simojovel de Allende in northern Chiapas, a region known for small smoked chiles sold through highland markets rather than through the national dried-chile trade. Vinegar preserves became common in Mexican household kitchens after Spanish-introduced sugarcane vinegar and fruit vinegars met older Indigenous preservation habits based on drying, salting, and smoking. In Chiapas, these jars carry the logic of the highlands: preserve the chile when it is available, then use it through the year as a sharp, smoky condiment.
Quantity
2 ounces
stems trimmed, chiles left whole
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1 medium
peeled and sliced into thin coins
Quantity
1/2 small
sliced into thin half-moons
Quantity
6
lightly crushed
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried chile simojovelstems trimmed, chiles left whole | 2 ounces |
| white vinegar | 1 cup |
| apple cider vinegar | 1 cup |
| water | 1/2 cup |
| carrotpeeled and sliced into thin coins | 1 medium |
| white onionsliced into thin half-moons | 1/2 small |
| garlic cloveslightly crushed | 6 |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| dried Mexican oregano | 1 teaspoon |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon |
| black peppercorns | 1/2 teaspoon |
| sugar or grated piloncillo | 1/2 teaspoon |
| vegetable oil | 1 tablespoon |
Look through the chile simojovel and remove any broken stems or dusty pieces. Wipe the chiles with a dry cloth. Do not rinse them unless they are truly dirty, because water dulls the smoked aroma. Leave them whole so the vinegar pulls heat slowly from the seeds.
Heat the oil in a small clay cazuela or stainless saucepan over medium. Add the carrot, white onion, and garlic. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring, until the onion loses its raw edge and the garlic smells sweet. You are not browning anything. This is a pickle, not a sofrito.
Add the white vinegar, apple cider vinegar, water, bay leaves, Mexican oregano, salt, peppercorns, and sugar or piloncillo. Bring it just to a simmer and stir until the salt dissolves. Taste the liquid. It should be sharp, salty, and lightly aromatic. If it tastes flat now, it will taste flat in the jar.
Add the chile simojovel and press them under the hot vinegar with a spoon. Simmer for 2 minutes only. The skins will darken and soften, and the smoked smell will rise from the pan. Do not boil them hard. You want the chile to open, not collapse.
Divide the chiles, carrot, onion, garlic, and bay leaves between two clean pint jars. Pour the hot vinegar over them, making sure the chiles are fully covered. Tap the jars gently on the counter to release trapped air. If a chile sits above the liquid, push it down. Anything exposed will spoil faster.
Let the jars cool, then cover and refrigerate. Wait at least 24 hours before eating. After three days, the vinegar will taste smoky and the carrots will carry the chile heat. That is when the jar starts doing its work. Serve a few chiles and vegetables beside black beans, eggs, caldo de pollo, or a plate of rice. Así se hace y punto.
1 serving (about 50g)
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