
Chef Thomas
Anglesey Eggs
Eggs bedded into leek-flecked mash under a blanket of sharp cheese sauce, baked until golden and bubbling. A Welsh supper dish that proves the simplest things are usually the best.
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Created by Chef Thomas
Chicken thighs browned in butter, then settled into a gentle pan sauce of mushrooms, cream, and white wine. The sort of supper that makes an ordinary Tuesday feel like it was worth getting home for.
The kitchen smells of butter and mushrooms and thyme, which is to say it smells like an evening when you have nowhere else to be. This is an autumn supper, the kind you make when the clocks have gone back and the dark comes in early and you want something warm and quiet on the table.
There is nothing clever here. Chicken thighs, browned in butter until the skin goes golden and crisp. Mushrooms, sliced thickly and cooked in the same pan until they give up their moisture and start to colour. A splash of white wine that sizzles and reduces to almost nothing. Then the cream goes in, and the whole thing comes together into something that smells like the sort of evening you'd write down. I did, once: "Chicken. Mushrooms. Cream. Tuesday. Rain on the window." That was enough.
A recipe is a conversation, not a contract. If you've got tarragon instead of thyme, use it. If the mushrooms at the market are field mushrooms rather than chestnut, even better. The method stays the same: brown the chicken, build the sauce in the same pan, let everything simmer together until the sauce is silky and the kitchen smells like somewhere you want to be.
Serve it from the pan with mashed potatoes or rice or just a torn piece of bread. Something that will catch the sauce, because the sauce is the thing. There are few better feelings than putting a warm plate of this in front of someone on a cold evening and watching their shoulders drop half an inch.
Quantity
4-6
Quantity
250g
thickly sliced
Quantity
1 large or 2 small
finely sliced
Quantity
2 cloves
finely sliced
Quantity
a few sprigs
Quantity
100ml
Quantity
150ml
Quantity
200ml
Quantity
30g
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
small handful
roughly chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| boneless, skin-on chicken thighs | 4-6 |
| chestnut mushroomsthickly sliced | 250g |
| banana shallot or regular shallotsfinely sliced | 1 large or 2 small |
| garlicfinely sliced | 2 cloves |
| fresh thyme | a few sprigs |
| dry white wine | 100ml |
| chicken stock | 150ml |
| double cream | 200ml |
| unsalted butter | 30g |
| olive oil | 1 tablespoon |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| black pepper | to taste |
| flat-leaf parsley (optional)roughly chopped | small handful |
Season the chicken thighs generously with salt and pepper. Get a wide, heavy pan properly hot over a medium-high flame, then add the oil and half the butter. When the butter foams and starts to calm, lay the thighs in skin-side down. Don't touch them. Let them sit for five or six minutes until the skin is golden and crisp and lifts away from the pan without resistance. Turn them and give the other side three minutes, just enough to take on some colour. They won't be cooked through yet, and that's fine. Lift them onto a plate.
Keep the pan on the heat. There should be buttery, chicken-flavoured fat in there, which is exactly what you want. Add the mushrooms in a single layer. Resist the urge to stir. Let them sit until they've taken on colour on the underside, three or four minutes, then turn them. You want them golden at the edges and slightly shrunken, not pale and steaming. If you crowd the pan, they'll stew rather than brown. Better to do this in two batches than get it wrong in one. When they're done, move them to the plate with the chicken.
Turn the heat down to medium. Add the remaining butter to the pan. When it melts, add the sliced shallots and a pinch of salt. Cook gently for two or three minutes until they're soft and translucent. Add the garlic and the thyme sprigs and stir for another minute, just until the garlic smells fragrant and sweet, not sharp. The kitchen will start to smell right about now.
Pour in the white wine. It will hiss and bubble. Use a wooden spoon to scrape up anything stuck to the bottom of the pan. All that caramelised flavour from the chicken and mushrooms belongs in the sauce, not left behind on the metal. Let the wine reduce by half, which takes a minute or two. When the sharp alcohol smell has gone and what's left smells rounded and gently winey, you're there.
Pour in the stock and let it simmer for a couple of minutes. Then add the cream and stir it through. The sauce will turn a pale, golden colour, silky and just thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Taste it. Season again if it needs it. Return the mushrooms to the pan and nestle the chicken thighs back in, skin-side up so the skin stays crisp above the sauce. Let everything simmer gently for eight to ten minutes until the chicken is cooked through and the sauce has reduced slightly. The thighs should feel firm when pressed, with no give in the centre.
Scatter a little parsley over the top if you have it. Serve straight from the pan, spooning the sauce generously over each portion. This wants rice, or mashed potatoes, or a piece of bread torn from a good loaf. Something to catch the sauce. The sauce is the point.
1 serving (about 290g)
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