
Chef Thomas
A Proper Bacon Sandwich
Back bacon in a hot pan, good white bread, soft salted butter. Ten minutes between waking up and the first bite of something that makes the morning make sense.
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Created by Chef Thomas
Slow-cooked onions and sharp cheddar in a crisp, buttery case, set with a gentle custard that wobbles just so. The kind of honest, unfussy thing that belongs on every kitchen table.
The kitchen smells of onions going slowly golden in butter. It's been twenty minutes and they're not done yet. Good. There's no rushing this part. The sweetness only comes with patience, and a cheese and onion quiche is, at its heart, a matter of those two things meeting properly: sweet, melting onions and sharp, salty cheese, held together by a custard that barely sets.
I make this more often than almost anything else. It's the kind of cooking that asks for your attention in small, manageable doses, a bit of pastry rubbing, some onions to stir now and then, a custard to whisk, and then the oven does the rest. It sits happily on a Saturday lunchtime table with a green salad, cuts neatly for a Monday packed lunch, and tastes just as good eaten cold, standing at the kitchen counter, straight from the fridge at eleven o'clock at night. A recipe is a conversation, not a contract, and this one is forgiving. If your pastry cracks, patch it. If your onions colour a little too much, they'll still taste good. We're only making dinner.
Use a mature cheddar, something with a real bite that can stand up to the sweetness of the onions. The cheap stuff melts into nothing and leaves the custard bland. The nutmeg matters too, more than you'd expect. It connects the cheese and the cream in a way that nothing else quite does. I wrote it down in the notebook years ago: onions, cheddar, nutmeg, right. I haven't changed a thing since.
Quantity
200g
Quantity
100g
cubed
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
1
Quantity
2-3 tablespoons
Quantity
3 large
halved and thinly sliced
Quantity
30g
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
200g
coarsely grated
Quantity
3
Quantity
200ml
Quantity
100ml
Quantity
for grating
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| plain flour | 200g |
| cold unsalted butter (for pastry)cubed | 100g |
| fine sea salt (for pastry) | pinch |
| egg yolk (for pastry) | 1 |
| ice-cold water | 2-3 tablespoons |
| onionshalved and thinly sliced | 3 large |
| unsalted butter (for onions) | 30g |
| fresh thyme leaves (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
| mature cheddarcoarsely grated | 200g |
| large eggs | 3 |
| double cream | 200ml |
| whole milk | 100ml |
| whole nutmeg | for grating |
| fine sea salt and black pepper | to taste |
Put the flour and salt in a large bowl. Add the cold butter and rub it in with your fingertips until the mixture looks like coarse breadcrumbs. There should still be a few small, flat pieces of butter visible. That's what gives you a flaky crust. Add the egg yolk and a tablespoon of ice-cold water, then bring it together with a knife, adding the remaining water a little at a time until the dough just holds. Don't overwork it. The moment it comes together, stop. Wrap it in cling film, press it into a flat disc, and put it in the fridge for at least thirty minutes.
While the pastry rests, melt the butter in a wide, heavy pan over a low heat. Add the sliced onions and a good pinch of salt. Stir them through the butter, then turn the heat as low as it will go. Cook for twenty-five to thirty minutes, stirring every now and then, until they've gone from sharp and white to soft, golden, and almost jammy. They should smell sweet and faintly caramelised. If you've got thyme, stir it through in the last few minutes. Take them off the heat and let them cool.
Set the oven to 200C/180C fan. Roll the pastry out on a lightly floured surface until it's large enough to line a 23cm loose-bottomed tart tin, with a little overhang. Lift it carefully into the tin and press it gently into the corners and up the sides. Don't trim the edges yet. Prick the base a few times with a fork, line with baking parchment, and fill with baking beans or dried rice. Bake for fifteen minutes, then remove the paper and beans and return to the oven for another five to eight minutes, until the base is dry and pale gold. If there are any small cracks, dab a little raw egg over them. They'll seal in the heat.
Turn the oven down to 170C/150C fan. Spread the cooled onions across the base of the pastry case. Scatter over roughly two-thirds of the grated cheese. In a jug, beat the eggs with the cream and milk. Grate in a generous amount of nutmeg, more than you think, and season with salt and pepper. Pour the custard over the onions and cheese, letting it settle and find its way between the layers. Scatter the remaining cheese over the top.
Bake for twenty-five to thirty minutes. You're looking for the filling to be set at the edges but still with a gentle wobble in the centre when you give the tin a nudge. Not a liquid wobble. A just-barely-there tremble, like a custard that knows it's nearly done. The top should be golden in patches where the cheese has caught. Take it out and let it rest in the tin for at least ten minutes before trimming the pastry edges with a serrated knife and removing the sides. The filling firms as it cools, and cutting too soon will give you a flood rather than a slice.
1 serving (about 180g)
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