Chawanmushi (茶碗蒸し, savory steamed egg custard)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Chawanmushi cups with lids, or small heatproof teacups covered with foil
• •Steamer basket or a wide pot fitted with a rack
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Pouring cup
• •Clean kitchen cloth for wrapping the steamer lid

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the dashi

   Wipe the konbu with a damp cloth, but don't wash it. Put it in the cold water and bring it up slowly over low heat, about ten minutes. Pull the konbu just before the water boils, when small bubbles climb the sides. Boiling the kelp makes the stock faintly bitter and slippery, and chawanmushi has no sauce to hide that mistake.

2. 2

   Steep the flakes

   Bring the water to a gentle boil, add the katsuobushi all at once, and take the pot off the heat. Let the flakes sink for two or three minutes, then strain through a cloth or fine-mesh strainer. Let it drip naturally. Don't squeeze, because squeezing presses stronger, oily flavors into the clear stock you need for a clean custard.

   You need 2 cups of dashi for the custard. If you have a little extra, save it for adjusting the seasoning or for soup.
3. 3

   Season the fillings

   Toss the chicken with the sake and soy sauce and let it sit for ten minutes while the dashi cools. This seasons the meat at its center, so the custard can stay pale and delicate instead of being asked to carry all the salt. Keep the shrimp, shiitake, ginkgo nuts, and kamaboko separate and ready.

4. 4

   Mix the custard

   Beat the eggs gently in a bowl, cutting through the whites with chopsticks or a fork rather than whipping them. Measure 2 cups of cooled dashi and stir in the usukuchi shōyu, mirin, and salt. Add the seasoned dashi to the eggs and stir quietly. Foam is the enemy here, because bubbles become pockmarks on the finished surface.

5. 5

   Strain the egg

   Strain the egg mixture through a fine sieve into a pouring cup. This catches the thick strands of egg white and any bits that would set unevenly. Skim off surface bubbles with a spoon. The custard should look thin and calm, not frothy.

6. 6

   Fill the cups

   Divide the chicken, shrimp, shiitake, ginkgo nuts, and kamaboko among four chawanmushi cups or small heatproof teacups. Pour in the egg mixture to cover, filling each cup about three-quarters full. Leave space at the top so the custard has room to set cleanly and so the lid does not drip directly onto the surface.

7. 7

   Steam gently

   Set the cups in a steamer over water that is already simmering, not roaring. Cover each cup with its lid, or cover tightly with foil. Put the steamer lid on slightly ajar, or wrap it in a cloth to catch drips. Steam over medium heat for 2 minutes, then lower the heat and steam very gently for 12 to 15 minutes more. A hard boil toughens the egg; soft heat lets it set without holes.

8. 8

   Check the set

   Touch the cup lightly or tilt it a little. The custard should tremble as one piece, with no loose liquid moving at the edge. If you insert a skewer near the center, the liquid that rises should be clear, not cloudy egg. If it still looks milky, steam another 2 minutes and check again.

9. 9

   Finish and serve

   Set a sprig of mitsuba and a strip of yuzu peel on each custard just before serving, then replace the lids. The herb and citrus should wake the surface, not bury it. Serve warm with a spoon, and let each guest find the small pieces underneath in their own time.

Chef Tips

• •Use freshly made dashi if you can. Chawanmushi is mostly dashi and egg, so powdered stock tastes flat and salty here. When the dashi is the dish, don't ask a shortcut to do a foundation's work.
• •The egg-to-dashi ratio matters more than the garnish. Three large eggs to 2 cups dashi gives a spoon-soft set. Add much more egg and it becomes firm; add much more dashi and it may never settle.
• •Keep the fillings modest. One shrimp, one piece of chicken, a mushroom, and a few small accents are enough. The pleasure is discovery, not excavation.
• •If you're serving a meatless table, make the stock with konbu and dried shiitake. Soak 10g konbu and 4 dried shiitake in 2 1/2 cups cold water overnight, warm it gently, and strain. That is honmono from the temple kitchen, not a compromise.
• •If your steamer runs hot, set the cups on a folded cloth inside the pot. It softens the heat from below and keeps the cups from rattling, which is a small mercy for both custard and cook.

Advance Preparation

• •The dashi can be made up to two days ahead and kept refrigerated. Chill it quickly and keep it covered so the aroma stays clean.
• •The fillings can be trimmed and portioned several hours ahead. Keep shrimp and chicken cold until you assemble the cups.
• •Mix and strain the custard shortly before steaming. Once egg and dashi sit together too long, bubbles rise and the seasoning can settle unevenly.
• •Chawanmushi is best served soon after steaming, but it can rest covered for 10 minutes in a warm place without harm.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 230g)