Cazón en Adobo Gaditano

Cazón en adobo is Cádiz's fried fish, gaditano and Andaluz: firm dogfish cut into cubes, soaked in vinegar, garlic, oregano, cumin, and pimentón, then floured and fried until the crust is crisp and the inside stays juicy. This is not plain pescado frito with seasoning sprinkled on top. The adobo goes all the way through the fish before the flour ever touches it.

The soak decides the dish. Cazón is firm and a little marine, and the vinegar tightens it, seasons it, and takes the edge off the shark's stronger smell. Give it the night in the fridge. Then drain it well and don't rinse, because wet fish makes a gummy jacket and rinsed fish tastes of nothing. Hot oil, thin flour, small batches. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.

No cazón where you are? Ask for rape, monkfish, cut into the same 3cm pieces. It is sweeter and less briny, so give it 6 to 8 hours instead of the full night. Firm cod or hake works at a pinch, but only 3 to 4 hours and a gentler hand, because it flakes sooner. No hace falta haber pisado España, but the adobo must still be allowed to do its work.

In my Margin beside this one I wrote escurrir sin lavar, drain without rinsing. Small line, large consequence. Pésalo, no lo adivines, and fry only when people are ready to eat.