
Chef Joost
Beschuit met Muisjes
The airy Dutch rusk sold in rolls of thirteen, twice baked until crisp, then buttered and crowned with sugared aniseed for the birth of a child.
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The Dutch square loaf baked under a lid, with a quiet crumb, a disciplined crust, and exactly the right shape for the tosti pan.
Some breads announce themselves by swelling proudly over the tin. Casinobrood is better behaved. It rises until the lid says enough, and that small act of restraint gives the Dutch kitchen one of its most useful loaves: square slices, fine crumb, thin crust, no drama. Very suitable for a country that likes order until dinner, then argues cheerfully over who gets the last tosti.
The name already tells you there is a room behind it. Casino here is not first a place of roulette and bad decisions, but the older European word for a club, mess, or dining room, the kind of public table where bread needed to slice cleanly, stack neatly, and feed people without crumbs behaving like confetti. But let me tell you a secret: this is not lesser bread because it is tidy. A good casinobrood is the opposite of careless factory white. It is soft because milk and butter soften it, even because the closed tin trains it, and useful because usefulness is a virtue, not a surrender.
The method is plain, and it should be. Knead until the dough is elastic, let it rise without rushing, press out the large bubbles before shaping, and bake it in a lidded pullman tin so the loaf learns its square manners. Hou het altijd simpel, always keep it simple. If your reward is a slice that browns evenly in butter and holds molten cheese without collapsing, you have understood the whole argument.
Casinobrood is the Dutch version of the lidded sandwich loaf known elsewhere as pain de mie or Pullman bread, baked in a closed tin to produce a square form, thin crust, and fine crumb. In Dutch usage the word casino also retained older European meanings connected to club rooms, messes, and public dining, which suits a loaf designed for neat service rather than rustic display. Its twentieth-century popularity grew with sliced bread, lunchrooms, and the domestic tosti, where square, even slices became a practical virtue.
Quantity
500g
Quantity
300ml
lukewarm
Quantity
7g
Quantity
10g
Quantity
20g
Quantity
40g
softened
Quantity
as needed
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| strong white bread flour | 500g |
| whole milklukewarm | 300ml |
| instant yeast | 7g |
| fine salt | 10g |
| caster sugar | 20g |
| unsalted buttersoftened | 40g |
| butter or neutral oil for the tin | as needed |
Put the flour, yeast, salt, and sugar in a large bowl, keeping the salt and yeast on opposite sides until you mix. Add the lukewarm milk and softened butter, then bring everything together into a soft dough. It should feel slightly tacky, not wet; casinobrood needs tenderness, but it must still hold its shape.
Knead for 10 to 12 minutes by hand, or 7 to 8 minutes in a stand mixer on low speed, until the dough is smooth, elastic, and springs back when pressed. This is where the fine crumb begins. Lazy kneading leaves large holes, and large holes are not useful when the cheese starts melting.
Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover it, and let it rise until doubled, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours depending on your kitchen. Don't chase the clock. A cool Dutch kitchen in February and a warm one in July are not the same kitchen, for obvious reasons.
Grease a lidded pullman tin, about 23 x 10 x 10cm. Turn the dough out, press it gently into a rectangle to knock out the large bubbles, then roll it up tightly from the short side, pinching the seam closed. Lay it seam-side down in the tin. The tight roll gives you an even slice from heel to heel.
Slide the lid on most of the way, leaving a small gap so you can check the dough. Let it rise until it sits about 2cm below the top of the tin, usually 45 to 60 minutes. Close the lid fully before baking. If the dough reaches the lid before the oven is ready, it will press itself too hard against the roof and the crumb will turn dense.
Bake at 200C for 30 to 35 minutes with the lid on. Remove the loaf from the tin at once and tap the base; it should sound hollow. If it sounds dull, return it to the oven without the tin for 5 minutes more. Cool completely before slicing, because a warm loaf is still setting inside, however persuasive the butter may look.
1 serving (about 50g)
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