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Created by Chef Lupita
Mexicali's Cantonese-Mexican stir-fried pork shoulder, marinated overnight in soy, hoisin, achiote, and piloncillo, then seared hot in a wok and glazed in its own reduction.
This is from Mexicali, Baja California. Specifically from La Chinesca, the Chinatown that grew up in Mexicali in the early 1900s when Cantonese laborers came north to dig the irrigation canals of the Mexicali Valley and stayed to feed a city. Mexicali has the largest Chinese community in Mexico, more Chinese restaurants per capita than anywhere else in the country, and a hybrid kitchen tradition that no other Mexican state can claim.
Carnitas coloradas are the Mexicali version of Cantonese char siu. Same idea: pork shoulder marinated in a sweet-savory red sauce, cooked over high heat until the edges lacquer. But the Mexicali cooks did not have all the Chinese pantry. They had the local mercado. So the achiote slipped in next to the five-spice. The piloncillo replaced rock sugar where it had to. The flour tortilla showed up next to the steamed rice. This is not a fusion dish in the food-magazine sense. This is what happened when two grandmothers cooked in the same kitchen for a hundred years.
The pork has to be cut against the grain or it ruins. The marinade has to sit overnight or it does not penetrate. The wok has to be hotter than you think your stove can manage. These are not suggestions. These are the parts that make this dish carnitas coloradas and not pork strips with red sauce. La cocina no es decoracion, es trabajo. Saber cocinar es saber vivir.
Quantity
3 pounds
cut into 1/2-inch thick strips against the grain
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
2 tablespoons
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| boneless pork shouldercut into 1/2-inch thick strips against the grain | 3 pounds |
| Chinese light soy sauce | 1/4 cup |
| Chinese dark soy sauce | 2 tablespoons |
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