Chef Graziella
Arancini alla Siciliana
Golden fried rice balls from Sicily, where Arab culinary influence meets Italian home cooking. The saffron-perfumed rice conceals a heart of slow-simmered ragù and sweet peas.
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Carciofi alla Giudia
Created by
The legendary fried artichokes of Rome's Jewish quarter, each leaf crisp enough to shatter between your teeth, the heart tender as butter. Four ingredients. Technique is everything.
Appetizers & Snacks
Italian, Roman
Special Occasion
Holiday
45 min
Active Time
30 min cook•1 hr 15 min total
Yield4 servings
This is a dish of trimming and technique. The artichokes of the Roman ghetto have been prepared this way for five hundred years, and the method has not changed because it cannot be improved. You remove the tough outer leaves until only tenderness remains. You press the artichoke flat so the leaves fan open like a bronze chrysanthemum. You fry it twice: first gently to cook the heart, then fiercely to crisp every petal.
Americans add things. Breadcrumbs. Garlic. Herbs. This is wrong. The artichoke needs only olive oil and salt. What you keep out is as significant as what you put in. The Jewish cooks of Rome understood that restraint creates intensity.
Simple does not mean easy. The trimming alone takes practice. You will think you are throwing away too much of the artichoke. You are not. Every tough leaf you leave attached is one that will not crisp, one that will stick in your teeth. Be ruthless. The reward is a vegetable transformed into something that exists nowhere else: shattering and tender, bitter and sweet, impossibly light.
Carciofi alla Giudia emerged from Rome's Jewish ghetto, where the community had lived since 1555 when Pope Paul IV confined them to a few blocks near the Tiber. Forbidden many professions and ingredients, Jewish cooks turned the Roman artichoke into something extraordinary. The dish became so celebrated that it crossed the ghetto walls, appearing on tables throughout the city while remaining, always, Jewish-style.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
globe artichokes
Quantity
4 large
lemons
Quantity
2
halved
extra virgin olive oil
Quantity
4 cups
for frying
flaky sea salt
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| globe artichokes | 4 large |
| lemonshalved | 2 |
| extra virgin olive oilfor frying | 4 cups |
| flaky sea salt | to taste |
Equipment Needed
- •Deep heavy pot or Dutch oven for frying
- •Long-handled slotted spoon or spider
- •Instant-read or deep-fry thermometer
- •Sharp paring knife
Instructions
- 1
Prepare acidulated water
Fill a large bowl with cold water and squeeze in the juice of both lemons. Drop the lemon halves into the bowl. You will work quickly, but the artichokes must go into this water the moment you finish trimming each one. Oxidation is the enemy. A brown artichoke is a ruined artichoke.
- 2
Trim the artichokes
This is where amateurs fail. Snap off the tough outer leaves by bending them backward until they break at the tender base. Continue removing leaves until you reach the pale yellow-green inner leaves. You will think you are removing too much. You are not. Cut off the top third of the artichoke with a sharp knife. Pare the stem, leaving about two inches attached, and trim the dark green outer layer from the base. Rub every cut surface with lemon immediately. Submerge in the acidulated water. Repeat with remaining artichokes.
Roman artichokes, the carciofi romaneschi, have no thorns and tender leaves. If using standard globe artichokes, you must be more aggressive in trimming. Remove any leaf that would be unpleasant to eat. - 3
Open the artichokes
Remove one artichoke from the water and shake off excess liquid. Hold it by the stem and gently spread the leaves open with your fingers, pressing down against a work surface. The artichoke should begin to flatten and the leaves fan outward like a flower. If there is a fuzzy choke in the center, scrape it out with a small spoon. Return to the lemon water. Repeat with all artichokes.
- 4
Dry thoroughly
Remove the artichokes from the water and pat them completely dry with clean towels. Shake them gently to release water trapped between the leaves. Water and hot oil are enemies. Any moisture will cause dangerous spattering and prevent proper crisping. The artichokes must be dry.
- 5
First frying
Pour the olive oil into a deep pot or Dutch oven. The oil should be at least three inches deep. Heat to 300°F. Working with one artichoke at a time, lower it into the oil stem-side up. The leaves should spread against the bottom of the pot. Fry gently for 8 to 10 minutes, turning occasionally, until the leaves are tender when pierced with a knife. The artichoke will be pale gold, not crisp. Remove and drain upside down on paper towels. Repeat with remaining artichokes.
The first frying cooks the artichoke through. Do not rush this step. The heart must become tender before the second frying or you will have crisp leaves protecting a raw center. - 6
Second frying
Increase the oil temperature to 350°F. Return each artichoke to the oil, this time pressing it firmly against the bottom of the pot with a long-handled slotted spoon. The leaves will spread dramatically and begin to crisp. Fry for 2 to 3 minutes, pressing occasionally, until the leaves are deep golden brown and shatteringly crisp. The edges should look almost burnt. They are not. Remove and drain upside down.
- 7
Finish and serve
While the artichokes are still hot, sprinkle generously with flaky sea salt. Some Roman cooks flick cold water onto the hot artichokes with their fingers. This creates a dramatic sizzle and, they say, additional crispness. Serve immediately. These wait for no one. The leaves should shatter when you bite them, then melt on your tongue.
Chef Tips
- •Seek out Roman artichokes if you can find them. They are harvested young, with no thorns and almost no choke. American globe artichokes require more aggressive trimming but will still produce excellent results.
- •The oil must be olive oil. Vegetable oil produces a different flavor entirely, and this dish is about the marriage of artichoke and olive oil. Yes, it is expensive. This is a dish for occasions.
- •Do not crowd the pot. Fry one or at most two artichokes at a time. Crowded artichokes steam instead of fry, and you will have soggy leaves instead of crisp ones.
- •The traditional Roman test: tap the fried artichoke against the edge of the pot. It should sound hollow and crisp, like knocking on wood.
Advance Preparation
- •Artichokes may be trimmed and held in acidulated water for up to 2 hours before frying.
- •The first frying can be done several hours ahead. Leave the artichokes at room temperature and complete the second frying just before serving.
- •Once fully fried, carciofi alla giudia must be eaten immediately. They do not reheat. They do not wait. They exist only in the moment.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 120g)
Calories
315 calories
Total Fat
30 g
Saturated Fat
4 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
25 g
Cholesterol
0 mg
Sodium
495 mg
Total Carbohydrates
11 g
Dietary Fiber
5 g
Sugars
1 g
Protein
4 g
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