Candied Citrus Peel Dipped in Dark Chocolate

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large heavy-bottomed saucepan (4-quart minimum)
• •Wire cooling rack
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Slotted spoon or spider strainer
• •Heatproof bowl for chocolate

Instructions

1. 1

   Select and prepare the citrus

   Choose fruit that feels heavy for its size with taut, fragrant skin. Press your thumbnail into the peel and smell: you want oils that leap out at you. Organic matters here because you are eating the skin. Scrub the fruit gently under cool water to remove any wax or residue. Juice the fruit for another purpose, then cut the peels into strips about a quarter-inch wide and three inches long. Leave a thin layer of white pith attached. It softens during candying and gives the finished product body.

   Winter is peak citrus season. Seek out fruit from farmers who can tell you where and when it was picked. That aliveness in the peel is what you are preserving.
2. 2

   Blanch away the bitterness

   Place all the peel strips in a large saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then drain completely. Repeat this process two more times, starting with fresh cold water each round. Three blanches total. This draws out the harsh compounds in the pith while keeping the aromatic oils intact. After the final drain, the peels should taste mildly bitter, not punishing.

   Grapefruit pith is the most bitter. If you prefer a sweeter result, blanch the grapefruit peels one extra time before combining with the others.
3. 3

   Build the syrup

   In the same saucepan, combine three cups of sugar with three cups of water. Stir over medium heat until the sugar dissolves completely. The liquid should be crystal clear, not cloudy. This is your candying medium. Do not stir once the sugar has dissolved, or you risk crystallization.

4. 4

   Candy the peels slowly

   Add all the blanched peels to the syrup. They should be submerged or nearly so. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat, then reduce to the lowest flame your stove allows. The surface should show lazy, occasional bubbles. Cook for one and a half to two hours, adjusting heat as needed. The peels are ready when they appear translucent, the white pith has turned the color of honey, and the syrup has thickened considerably. Stir gently every twenty minutes or so to ensure even cooking.

   Patience is the only technique that matters here. High heat will caramelize the outside before the inside softens. Keep the simmer whisper-quiet.
5. 5

   Dry and coat with sugar

   Using a slotted spoon or spider, transfer the candied peels to a wire rack set over a baking sheet, separating them so they do not stick together. Let them drip and cool for ten minutes. While still slightly tacky, toss small batches in the remaining cup of sugar, shaking off the excess. Return to the rack and let dry completely at room temperature for at least four hours, preferably overnight. They should feel dry to the touch but still pliable, not brittle.

   Save that syrup. Strain it into a jar and refrigerate. It will keep for months and makes extraordinary cocktails, simple syrups for sparkling water, or a glaze for pound cake.
6. 6

   Temper the chocolate

   Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place two-thirds of the chopped chocolate in a heatproof bowl over barely simmering water. The bowl should not touch the water. Stir gently until the chocolate reaches 115F on an instant-read thermometer. Remove from heat, add the remaining chocolate, and stir until melted and the temperature drops to 82F. Briefly return to the heat, stirring constantly, until it reaches 88F to 90F. The chocolate should look glossy and snap cleanly when set. This is tempered chocolate.

   If tempering feels fussy, you can simply melt the chocolate and accept a softer set. The peels will still taste wonderful, just store them refrigerated to prevent bloom.
7. 7

   Dip and finish

   Hold each peel by one end and dip halfway into the tempered chocolate, letting the excess drip back into the bowl for a moment. Lay on the prepared parchment. If using flaky sea salt, add a few crystals to the chocolate while still wet. Work steadily: tempered chocolate sets quickly at room temperature. Let the peels rest until the chocolate is completely firm, about twenty minutes in a cool room. The chocolate should be shiny and snap when you bite through.

8. 8

   Store properly

   Layer the finished peels between sheets of parchment in an airtight container. They will keep at cool room temperature for up to three weeks, or refrigerated for two months. Let refrigerated peels come to room temperature before serving for the best texture and flavor. These are meant to be enjoyed slowly, one or two at a time, with coffee or after a meal.

Chef Tips

• •Seek out organic citrus from a farmer you trust. The peel is where pesticides concentrate, and it is also where the flavor lives. Know your source.
• •The color of the finished peel tells you about the fruit. Blood oranges produce a rosy hue. Meyer lemons are softer, more honeyed. Each variety offers something different.
• •Good chocolate matters as much as good fruit. Look for chocolate with a short ingredient list: cacao, cocoa butter, sugar. The bitter edge should complement the sweetness, not fight it.
• •These make beautiful gifts. Layer them in a simple box lined with parchment, tie with kitchen twine. Nothing from a store can compete with something made slowly by hand.

Advance Preparation

• •Candied peels can be made up to one week ahead and stored in sugar before dipping in chocolate. The drying time allows flavors to concentrate.
• •Chocolate-dipped peels keep at cool room temperature for three weeks in an airtight container, or refrigerated for two months.
• •The citrus syrup keeps refrigerated for up to three months. Use it in cocktails, sparkling water, or as a glaze for cakes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 12g)