
Chef Lupita
Alambres de Carne Asada Sonorenses
Sonora's mesquite-grilled alambre of ribeye and arrachera with bacon, bell pepper, and onion, blanketed in melted asadero and rolled into thin flour tortillas at the rancho table.
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Sinaloa's grilled beach snack: large Pacific shrimp wrapped tight in bacon, charred over mesquite, finished with fresh lime and crushed chiltepín. Bacon does the seasoning. The wild chile does the rest.
This is a Sinaloa dish. Specifically, it belongs to the beach palapas and the marisquerias of Mazatlán, Altata, and Teacapán, where the shrimp comes off the boats in the morning and the grills are lit by noon. The northwest coast eats shrimp the way central Mexico eats corn, every day, every which way, and this is one of the simplest and most direct preparations in the repertoire.
The ingredients are short. Large Pacific shrimp, smoked bacon, lime, and chiltepín. That is the dish. The bacon does the work that aromatics and marinades do in other recipes: it salts the shrimp, fats the shrimp, smokes the shrimp. You do not need a complicated rub. You need good shrimp and the discipline to leave them alone. If your shrimp is sad and gray, no amount of bacon will fix it. Si no conoces el mercado, no conoces la cocina.
The chiltepín is what makes this northern. It is the wild bird's-eye chile that grows on shrubs across Sonora and the northern reaches of Sinaloa, picked by hand, sold by the gram in small glass jars. The heat is bright and brief and it does not linger like a serrano or an arbol. Crushed over hot bacon and lime, it is the finish that locates this dish on the map. Cada estado, su propia cocina, and this one belongs to the coast.
My mother never made these. They are not jalisciense. I learned them on a folding chair under a palapa in Altata, watching a cook named Doña Reyna thread shrimp onto skewers while her husband tended the mesquite. She told me the only rule that mattered: do not overcook the shrimp. The bacon can wait. The shrimp cannot. Recetas probadas y garantizadas.
Sinaloa is the largest shrimp-producing state in Mexico, accounting for over half of the country's farmed and wild-caught output, and shrimp has anchored the coastal economy since the establishment of industrial fisheries in the Gulf of California in the early 20th century. The bacon-wrapped preparation is a relatively recent fusion, traceable to the rise of beachfront marisquerías and palapa-style restaurants in the 1970s and 1980s, when Sinaloan cooks adapted the American-influenced 'shrimp en brocheta' format to local taste by finishing with chiltepín. The chiltepín itself, Capsicum annuum var. glabriusculum, is the only chile native to and still harvested wild across Mexico's northwest, considered by botanists to be the oldest cultivated form of the species and protected under designation of origin in parts of Sonora.
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
peeled and deveined, tails left on
Quantity
12 ounces (about 16 to 20 slices)
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
2
finely grated
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
2 teaspoons, plus more for the table
lightly crushed
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for the grill
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for the cook
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| large Pacific shrimp (16/20 count)peeled and deveined, tails left on | 1 1/2 pounds |
| thin-cut smoked bacon | 12 ounces (about 16 to 20 slices) |
| fresh lime juice | 2 tablespoons |
| garlic clovesfinely grated | 2 |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| dried chiltepínlightly crushed | 2 teaspoons, plus more for the table |
| neutral oilfor the grill | 1 tablespoon |
| lime halves (optional) | for serving |
| salsa Huichol or salsa de chiltepín (optional) | for serving |
| hand-pressed corn tortillas or saltines (optional) | for serving |
| sliced cucumber (optional) | for serving |
| cold Pacifico (optional) | for the cook |
Build a charcoal fire with mesquite and let it burn down until the coals glow red under a thin coat of gray ash. This is the wood that grows wild across northern Sinaloa and Sonora and it is the wood that gives this dish its smoke. Gas works in a pinch, but you will be cooking shrimp wrapped in bacon, not camarones al chiltepín. There is a difference and your tongue will know it.
Pat the shrimp dry with paper towels. In a wide bowl, toss them with the lime juice, grated garlic, salt, and pepper. Let them sit for ten minutes while the coals settle. The bacon brings smoke and salt. The shrimp only need a little support underneath that. Heavy seasoning here fights the chiltepín at the finish.
Cut each slice of bacon in half crosswise so you have short strips. Lay one strip flat, place a shrimp at one end, and roll the bacon tight around the body of the shrimp, leaving the tail exposed. The bacon should overlap itself once. If a shrimp is very large, use a full slice. Thread three or four wrapped shrimp onto each soaked wooden skewer or doubled metal skewer, pushing the skewer through both ends of the bacon so it cannot unwrap on the grill.
Brush the grill grate with the neutral oil. Lay the skewers over the hot coals. The bacon fat will drip and flare. That is part of it. Cook for three to four minutes per side, turning once, until the bacon is crisp and mahogany on the outside and the shrimp curl into tight C shapes. A C is done. An O is overcooked. The tail meat should be opaque white, not gray. Total time on the grill is six to eight minutes, no more.
While the shrimp cook, crush the chiltepín in a molcajete or between your fingers. Chiltepín is the wild bird's-eye chile that grows on shrubs across Sonora and northern Sinaloa, and it is what makes this dish belong to that coast. The heat is sharp and clean and it disappears in a few seconds. That is the signature. A serrano or arbol is not a substitute. If you cannot find chiltepín, find a Mexican grocer who sells it dried in small jars or order it from Sonora. It keeps for a year in a sealed jar.
Pull the skewers off the grill and slide the shrimp onto a wide platter. Squeeze fresh lime over the top while the bacon is still hot. Scatter the crushed chiltepín across the shrimp, generously. Put more chiltepín, lime halves, and a bottle of salsa Huichol on the table. Eat with your fingers, hot, with cold beer and the people you cooked for. Asi se hace y punto.
1 serving (about 190g)
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